Keratin Fiber Relaxation via Denaturing Agents
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current hair relaxing methods using reducing agents like thioglycolic acid and hydroxides cause damage and irritation due to their causticity and poor stability, leading to mediocre durability and adverse effects on hair and scalp.
Innovation Solution
A process involving the application of a denaturing agent with a molecular mass greater than 18.1 g/mol at a molar concentration of 1M to 8M, combined with heating the hair to a temperature of 110 to 250°C, effectively relaxes keratin fibers without the caustic drawbacks of existing methods.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If reducing agents like thioglycolic acid are used to relax keratin fibres, then the disulfide bonds are effectively reduced, but the process causes caustic damage and irritation to hair and scalp
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical parameters by using denaturing agents (urea, guanidine, ammonia) instead of traditional reducing agents, and controls the process at elevated temperatures (100-200°C) with controlled pH (3-10). This parameter change achieves effective keratin relaxation without the caustic damage associated with traditional thiol-based reducing agents.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent introduces denaturing agents as intermediary substances that mediate the relaxation process. These agents (urea, guanidine, ammonia) act as intermediaries to disrupt disulfide bonds and keratin structure without directly causing the caustic damage that traditional reducing agents inflict on hair and scalp.
2Ease of manufacture
If hydroxide-based lanthionization is used to relax hair, then permanent reshaping is achieved without fixing step, but the causticity causes irritation and damage
Solution Approach 1:
The patent modifies the chemical parameters by using denaturing agents (urea, guanidine, ammonia) at elevated temperatures (100-200°C) instead of hydroxide-based lanthionization. This achieves permanent reshaping in a single step while eliminating the caustic irritation caused by hydroxides.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent employs denaturing agents as intermediaries to achieve permanent keratin reshaping without the need for hydroxide-based chemistry. These intermediaries disrupt the keratin structure and form new bonds without the caustic effects associated with hydroxide treatment.
3Shape
If thiols are used at alkaline pH for effective disulfide bond reduction, then good curliness is obtained, but the process gives off unpleasant odor and degrades the fibre
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical approach by using denaturing agents (urea, guanidine, ammonia) instead of thiol-based reducing agents at alkaline pH. This parameter change maintains effective keratin reshaping and curliness formation while eliminating the unpleasant odor and fibre degradation caused by thiol oxidation and alkaline conditions.
4Reliability
If sulfites or bisulfites are used for relaxing, then disulfide bonds are reduced, but the durability of reshaping is inferior and the process has similar drawbacks to thiols
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical parameters by using denaturing agents (urea, guanidine, ammonia) at elevated temperatures (100-200°C) instead of sulfite or bisulfite-based reduction. This achieves effective disulfide bond disruption while producing superior long-term durability of the reshaping effect, overcoming the inferior durability associated with sulfite treatments.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
This approach provides durable and gentle hair relaxation with improved cosmetic properties and reduced damage, enhancing hair integrity and reducing irritation.
Implementation Method 1
a denaturing agent with a molecular mass of greater than 18.1 g/mol, present in a molar concentration of between 1M and 8M
Implementation Method 2
raising the temperature of the keratin fibres to a temperature of between 110 and 250° C.
Implementation Method 3
The first reaction consists of a beta-elimination on cystine brought about by a hydroxide ion, leading to the cleavage of this bond and to the formation of dehydroalanine.
Implementation Method 4
The second reaction is a reaction of the dehydroalanine with a thiol group. Specifically, the double bond of the dehydroalanine formed is a reactive double bond. It can react with the thiol group of the cysteine residue that has been released to form a new bond known as a lanthionine bridge or bond or residue.
Data Source
AI summary
The invention relates to a process for relaxing keratin fibers by applying to the keratin fibers a relaxing composition containing at least one denaturing agent with a molecular mass of greater than 18.1 g/mol, present in a molar concentration of between 1M and 8M, and raising the temperature of the keratin fibers to a temperature of between 110 and 250° C.