Keratin Fiber Reshaping with Silicone Pretreatment Against Static

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing hair reshaping methods for keratin-containing fibers, such as human hair, often result in electrostatic charging and increased hydrophilicity, leading to poor styling, combability, and shine, while also potentially damaging the hair structure.

Innovation Solution

A process involving the application of a pretreatment agent containing amino-functional silicones with terminal hydroxy groups, which is left on the hair for up to 48 hours before being treated with a forming agent and optionally subjected to mechanical deformation and heat, to minimize electrostatic charge and hydrophilization, and enhance hair care and protection.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Shape

If conventional reshaping methods (keratin-reducing and oxidizing compositions) are used, then hair can be permanently deformed and styled, but the fiber becomes electrostatically charged and hydrophilic, leading to poor styling, combability, and shine

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair reshapingVSAvoidelectrostatic charge and hydrophilicity
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies a pretreatment agent containing amino-functional silicones with terminal hydroxy groups before the reshaping process. This preliminary action occurs up to 48 hours before shaping, allowing the silicone to bind to hair fibers and create a protective layer that prevents electrostatic charging and hydrophilization during subsequent oxidative treatment, thereby maintaining styling quality while avoiding harmful effects

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Solution Approach 2:

The amino-functional silicone acts as an intermediary substance between the hair fiber and the reshaping environment. The silicone molecules with amino groups and terminal hydroxy groups bind to the hair fiber surface, creating a protective interface that prevents direct harmful interactions during oxidative reshaping, thus eliminating electrostatic charge accumulation and hydrophilicity while allowing the desired shape change

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

2Shape

If alkaline forming agents are used for straightening, then disulfide bridges are destroyed and protein chains are broken down hydrolytically, but this leads to fiber structure damage

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair straighteningVSAvoiddisulfide bridge integrity
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The amino-functional silicone pretreatment is applied up to 48 hours before the alkaline forming agent, creating a protective layer on the hair fiber surface. This preliminary protection prevents the alkaline agent from directly attacking and breaking down the protein chains and disulfide bridges, allowing straightening to occur while preserving fiber structure integrity

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Solution Approach 2:

The amino-functional silicone serves as a protective intermediary between the alkaline forming agent and the hair fiber. The silicone layer moderates the harsh alkaline environment, preventing direct hydrolytic breakdown of protein chains and destruction of disulfide bridges, thus enabling shape change without compromising structural stability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

3Shape

If mercaptan or sulfite is used to split disulfide bridges, then the keratin fiber is softened for reshaping, but the fiber structure is compromised

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepermanent deformationVSAvoidkeratin fiber strength
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSStrength

Solution Approach 1:

The amino-functional silicone is applied up to 48 hours before the keratin-reducing treatment, establishing a protective barrier on the hair fiber. This preliminary protection allows the mercaptan or sulfite to split disulfide bridges and soften the fiber for reshaping, while the silicone layer prevents excessive structural compromise and maintains fiber strength

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Solution Approach 2:

The amino-functional silicone acts as a protective intermediary during the keratin-reducing step. It allows controlled splitting of disulfide bridges by mercaptan or sulfite to enable reshaping, while simultaneously protecting the overall fiber structure from excessive weakening, thus maintaining an optimal balance between deformability and structural integrity

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The process significantly reduces electrostatic charge and hydrophilization, improving hair properties by providing a better styling experience and protecting the hair structure during oxidative treatments.

Implementation Method 1

a pretreatment agent containing amino-functional silicone(s) with terminal hydroxy group(s) is applied to the keratin fibers and left there

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAdsorption: Adsorption

Implementation Method 2

the fiber is then treated with an oxidizing agent preparation in the so-called fixing step... During the later oxidative fixation, disulfide bridges are formed again in the hair keratin

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Implementation Method 3

the fibers are optionally mechanically deformed under the action of heat

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHeating: Heating

Data Source

PatentEP2687265B1Method for reshaping fibres containing keratin
Publication Date: 2015.11.18 HENKEL KGAA
  • EP2687265B1 patent drawing
  • EP2687265B1 patent drawing
  • EP2687265B1 patent drawing

AI summary

A shaping process for fibers containing keratin, in particular for human hair, which delivers a very good and lasting shaping result and at the same time minimizes the electrostatic charge and hydrophilization of the hair, cares for the fiber and protects the structure of the fiber, comprises the steps that (i) a Pretreatment agent containing amino-functional silicone(s) with terminal hydroxy group(s) is applied to the keratin fibers and left there (ii) the fibers after a period of exposure - are not rinsed, - are optionally dried, ( iii) the fibers are treated with a shaping agent, (iv) the fibers are optionally rinsed, (v) the fibers are optionally mechanically deformed under the action of heat.