Keratin Fiber Reshaping Composition with Sucrose Esters

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current permanent hair reshaping processes are time-consuming, require high skill, can cause hair damage, and often result in over-processing due to the need for multiple steps and the use of strong reducing agents with unpleasant odors, while existing alkaline non-reducing, non-oxidizing compositions face challenges in stability and performance.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition for reshaping keratin fibers with heat, comprising alkalizing agents, lipophilic compounds, and sucrose esters, which provides excellent heat stability, high curling efficiency, improved cosmetic safety, and reduced odor, applied without a moisture barrier, and a process involving mechanical tension, heating, and optional rinsing, using digital perm curlers.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If reducing agents and oxidizing compositions are used for permanent reshaping, then reshaping effectiveness is improved, but processing time increases and hair damage occurs

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvereshaping effectivenessVSAvoidprocessing time
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSLoss of time

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts and eliminates the reducing agent step from the traditional two-step perm process. By using only an oxidizing composition (hydrogen peroxide) to directly reform disulphide bonds without prior reduction, the process time is significantly reduced while maintaining reshaping effectiveness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The oxidizing composition is applied continuously to the hair throughout the heating process, maintaining constant bond reforming action. This continuous application eliminates the need for separate reduction and oxidation stages, streamlining the process while ensuring thorough reshaping.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #20Continuity of useful action

2Reliability

If reducing agents are used for permanent reshaping, then bond cleavage and movement are achieved, but strong acrid odour is generated

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvebond cleavage effectivenessVSAvoidacrid odour
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent converts the harmful acrid odour of reducing agents into a beneficial situation by completely eliminating reducing agents from the formulation. The odorless oxidizing composition achieves the same bond reforming function without generating unpleasant smells, making the process more acceptable to both stylists and consumers.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #22Blessing in disguise (Convert harm into benefit)

3Object-generated harmful factors

If alkaline non-reducing, non-oxidizing compositions are used, then odor is reduced, but stability and performance remain challenging

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveodourVSAvoidcomposition stability and performance
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-generated harmful factorsVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the pH range of the alkaline composition to 9-11, which balances multiple factors: high enough to effectively swell the hair cuticle and facilitate bond reforming, but controlled to prevent excessive damage. This parameter optimization resolves the stability and performance challenges while maintaining the odorless advantage of non-reducing compositions.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The oxidizing composition is formulated as a composite system containing hydrogen peroxide combined with specific alkaline agents and conditioning components. This composite formulation enhances stability during storage and application while maintaining effective performance for hair reshaping, overcoming the limitations of simpler alkaline compositions.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

4Productivity

If heat is applied for reshaping, then curling efficiency is improved, but composition dripping occurs at high temperatures

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecurling efficiencyVSAvoidcomposition dripping
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the physical parameters of the oxidizing composition by adjusting its viscosity and thermal stability characteristics. The formulation is designed to maintain optimal viscosity at application temperature while developing sufficient thickness and stability at processing temperatures (60-90°C), preventing dripping while preserving curling efficiency.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves improved heat stability, enhanced curling efficiency, and cosmetic safety by preventing dripping at high temperatures, with reduced odor and damage, and can be applied without a moisture barrier, offering a more efficient and safer hair reshaping process.

Implementation Method 1

heating the keratin fibers to a temperature in the range of 50°C to 230°C

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectThermal energy: Heating

Implementation Method 2

having a pH in the range of 7 to 12, and comprising: a) one or more alkalizing agent(s)

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectpH adjustment:

Data Source

PatentEP4308066B1Reshaping composition for keratin fibers
Publication Date: 2024.05.15 KAO GERMANY GMBH
  • EP4308066B1 patent drawing
  • EP4308066B1 patent drawing
  • EP4308066B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers and a keratin fiber reshaping process. The reshaping composition has a pH in the range of 7 to 12, and comprising: a) one or more organic alkalizing agent(s), b) one or more lipophilic compound(s) at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 80% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition, c) one or more sucrose esters.