Hair Conditioner Lamellar Structure Bound Water

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing hair treatment products lack formulations that provide a rich, creamy texture while maintaining good hair conditioning properties, as they often feel thin or watery and fail to improve combability and care of keratin fibers effectively.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic preparation containing cationic surfactants like stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and/or palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, combined with fatty alcohols having a melting point above 35°C and lactic acid, achieving at least 50% interlamellar bound water, with a molar ratio of 10 to 20% cationic surfactants to surfactants and fatty compounds, enhancing the creamy texture and hair care properties.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Shape

If conventional hair treatment products are formulated with cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols, then basic conditioning function is achieved, but the product feels thin or watery and lacks creamy texture

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovetextureVSAvoidspreadability
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the water binding parameters by introducing interlamellar-bound water phase with at least 50% proportion, measured by diffusion coefficient. This parameter change transforms the physical state of water from free-moving to bound within the lamellar structure, creating a creamy texture while maintaining spreadability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite formulation combining cationic surfactants (stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and/or palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride), fatty alcohols with melting point above 35°C, and lactic acid in specific ratios. This composite material forms a lamellar gel matrix that provides both creamy texture and good spreadability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Shape

If the product is made thicker to improve creamy texture, then richness is enhanced, but hair conditioning properties and combability improvement may be compromised

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovecreaminessVSAvoidhair conditioning performance
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the cationic surfactant concentration to 0.1-5% by weight and fatty alcohol to 1-10% by weight, creating a lamellar structure that binds water effectively. This parameter optimization ensures the product feels rich and creamy while maintaining excellent hair conditioning properties and combability improvement

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

Lactic acid serves as an intermediary component in the formulation, working synergistically with the cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols to stabilize the lamellar structure. This intermediary role ensures both the creamy texture and effective hair conditioning performance are achieved simultaneously

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The formulation results in a very rich, creamy conditioner texture, improved spreadability, and enhanced combability, with a preferred interlamellar-bound water proportion of at least 60%, effectively addressing the shortcomings of prior art by providing better sensory properties and hair care performance.

Implementation Method 1

these form a lamellar gel matrix

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectLamellar structure formation:

Implementation Method 2

the proportion of interlamellar bound water is at least 50%; measured with 1H-NMR spectroscopy using the stimulated echo method

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectBound water phase formation:

Data Source

PatentEP2444057B1Hair treatment agent with a high proportion of bound water
Publication Date: 2018.05.30 BEIERSDORF AG
  • EP2444057B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation for the treatment of keratinous fibers containing cationic surfactants, one or more fatty alcohols with a melting point above 35°C and lactic acid, and is characterized, among other things, by the fact that the proportion of interlamellar bound water is at least 50%, as measured by 1H-NMR diffusion measurements at 25°C.