Lavender Aqueous Extract Enriched with Small RNAs

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current lavender extracts used in cosmetics are limited by their strong odor, instability in topical applications, and irritant or allergenic properties due to terpene molecules, and they often lack essential compounds like small RNAs, sugars, and organic acids, which are desired for effective skincare and skin protection.

Innovation Solution

A new aqueous extract of lavender is developed, enriched with small RNAs, sugars, phenolic compounds, and organic acids, using a process involving phytic acid to extract these compounds without the use of potentially toxic detergents or solvents, ensuring a natural and stable product for cosmetic use.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Quantity of substance

If conventional lavender extraction methods using organic solvents or supercritical fluids are used, then volatile odorant compounds or polyphenols can be extracted, but the extract lacks essential compounds like small RNAs, sugars, and organic acids, and may contain toxic solvents

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveconcentration of essential compounds (small RNAs, sugars, organic acids)VSAvoidpresence of toxic solvents or incomplete extraction profile
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies parameter changes by adjusting pH to alkaline conditions (pH 9-12) during extraction, which enables the solubilization and extraction of diverse compounds including small RNAs, sugars, and organic acids that are not extracted by conventional methods. This pH parameter modification transforms the extraction efficiency and compound profile of the final extract

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses an intermediary approach by employing a two-stage extraction process: first with alkaline water to extract water-soluble compounds, then with organic solvent to extract lipophilic compounds. This intermediary stepwise extraction ensures comprehensive recovery of all compound classes without leaving toxic residues in the final aqueous extract

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

2Reliability

If lavender essential oil is used in cosmetics, then sedative, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties are provided, but strong odour, instability, and skin irritation or allergenic effects occur due to terpene molecules

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvebiological efficacy (sedative, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial properties)VSAvoidskin irritation, allergenic effects, and odour issues
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies the taking out principle by selectively extracting harmful terpene molecules through organic solvent extraction while retaining beneficial compounds in the aqueous phase. The organic solvent removes linalool and other terpenes that cause irritation and odour problems, leaving a safe aqueous extract that maintains biological efficacy without the harmful effects

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent segments the lavender extract into two distinct fractions: an aqueous fraction containing safe water-soluble compounds (small RNAs, sugars, organic acids, phenolics) and an organic fraction containing terpenes and volatile odorants. This segmentation allows the cosmetic formulation to use only the safe aqueous fraction, eliminating harmful components while preserving beneficial ones

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

3Object-affected harmful factors

If floral water is used instead of essential oil, then skin irritation is reduced, but the concentration of active terpene compounds is too low to provide effective cosmetic benefits

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin irritation and allergenic effectsVSAvoidcosmetic efficacy due to low terpene concentration
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent merges the advantages of both floral water and essential oil extraction into a single hybrid extract. The aqueous extraction method combines the safety profile of floral water (no skin irritation) with enhanced concentration of beneficial compounds through alkaline pH treatment, while the subsequent organic solvent step selectively removes only harmful terpenes, preserving cosmetic efficacy without compromising safety

Inventive Principle:
Principle #5Merging (Combining)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The enriched lavender extract provides enhanced skincare benefits, including improved hydration, photoprotection, skin lightening, barrier function reinforcement, and soothing effects, while avoiding skin irritation, and is suitable for various cosmetic formulations.

Implementation Method 1

adding phytic acid at a concentration of between 1 and 10 mM to the mixture obtained in a) at a pH of between 10 and 11

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectChelation:

Implementation Method 2

bringing the lavender aerial parts into contact with water; adding phytic acid... to obtain a purified aqueous crude extract

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSolvation:

Data Source

PatentUS20230390182A1Process for obtaining an aqueous extract of lavender, compositions comprising such an extract, and their cosmetic uses
Publication Date: 2023.12.07 ISP INVESTMENTS LLC
  • US20230390182A1 patent drawing

AI summary

The invention relates to a process for obtaining an aqueous extract of lavender enriched with small RNAs of a maximum length of 150 nucleotides, with sugars, with phenolic compounds, with organic acids and devoid of DNA, obtained by the following process: the lavender aerial parts are brought into contact with water; phytic acid is added at a pH of between 10 and 11; the pH of the mixture obtained is then adjusted to a value of between 6 and 8, the mixture obtained is purified. The invention also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising such an extract and their cosmetic uses for protecting the skin from external aggression and oxidation, combating the signs of skin ageing, increasing photoprotection, lightening the skin, improving hydration, reinforcing the barrier function, soothing the skin or improving the biological mechanisms associated with skin repair during the night.