Stabilizing Licochalcone A in Oil-Water Emulsions
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Solution Overview
Problem
Cosmetic preparations containing licorice extracts, particularly those with licochalcone A, are not stable during storage, especially at higher temperatures, leading to degradation and loss of effectiveness in O/W emulsions.
Innovation Solution
A cosmetic O/W emulsion formulation using glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate SE, stearic acid, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, PEG-40 stearate, and a mixture of cetearyl alcohol + PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil + sodium cetearyl sulfate as emulsifiers, combined with UV filters like octocrylene and aniso triazine, which enhances the stability of licochalcone A.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If licorice extract containing licochalcone A is used in O/W emulsion, then the cosmetic can combat skin irritations and redness, but the preparation loses stability during storage especially at higher temperatures
Solution Approach 1:
The patent introduces UV filters (octocrylene, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, aniso triazine) as intermediary substances that mediate between the licorice extract and environmental factors. These UV filters form a protective system that stabilizes the licochalcone A during storage by absorbing UV radiation and preventing degradation, while allowing the licorice extract to maintain its skin protection function.
2Stability of the object's composition
If UV filters are added to stabilize licochalcone A, then storage stability improves, but the formulation complexity increases
Solution Approach 1:
The UV filters serve multiple functions simultaneously: they protect the licochalcone A from degradation during storage, provide sun protection for the skin, and act as antioxidants. This multi-functionality reduces the need for separate stabilizing agents, thereby limiting the increase in formulation complexity while achieving storage stability.
3Loss of time
If the cosmetic is stored at higher temperatures to test stability, then degradation occurs faster, but this accelerates loss of effectiveness
Solution Approach 1:
The UV filters are incorporated into the formulation in advance to preemptively counteract degradation. When the cosmetic is stored at higher temperatures or exposed to UV light, the filters are already in position to absorb the energy and prevent licochalcone A degradation, thereby maintaining effectiveness over extended storage periods.
Data Source
AI summary
Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (I) comprises 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene) (A), 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane) (B), and licorice extract (C) or licochalcone A (D). An independent claim is included for the preparation of (D) and/or (C) containing oil-in-water emulsion, comprising preparing hot water phase; adding heated oil phase comprising (A), (B) and optionally other UV filter of 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, into the hot water phase; subsequently homogenizing both phases of oil-in-water emulsion; cooling the preparation; stirring (C) and/or (D) dissolved in ethanol in the emulsion and subsequently adding perfumes and preservatives. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.