Water-in-Oil Lip Emulsion for Stable Shine and Low Stickiness

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing lip makeup products face challenges in simultaneously achieving high hold, shine, and comfort due to the sensitivity and friction of the lips, often leading to dryness, stickiness, or heaviness when trying to enhance these properties.

Innovation Solution

A water-in-oil emulsion with a specific composition of oils, polyols, and stabilizing agents like ethylcellulose and modified hectorite, providing high fluidity, hydration, and shine while minimizing stickiness, using a dynamic viscosity of 1,500 to 10,000 mPa.s, and containing minimal binding agents.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Duration of action of stationary object

If the hold of makeup is increased to last longer on the lips, then the durability is improved, but the comfort deteriorates causing dryness and stickiness

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehold durationVSAvoiddryness and stickiness
Core Design Contradiction:
Duration of action of stationary objectVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical-chemical parameters of the emulsion by controlling the ratio of aqueous phase (30-50%) to oily phase (50-70%) and adjusting viscosity (1000-5000 mPa.s). This optimized parameter combination allows the makeup to maintain long-lasting hold while avoiding excessive dryness and stickiness through balanced phase distribution and appropriate fluidity.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses a composite emulsion system combining multiple components: aqueous phase with hydrating agents, oily phase with emollients, and film-forming polymers. This composite structure enables simultaneous achievement of long durability and comfort by leveraging the complementary properties of each component working together.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Illumination intensity

If the shine of the film is increased to provide a glossy appearance, then the aesthetic quality is improved, but the comfort deteriorates causing heaviness and stickiness

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveshineVSAvoidheaviness and stickiness
Core Design Contradiction:
Illumination intensityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the viscosity parameter (1000-5000 mPa.s) and the phase composition ratio to achieve a balanced film that provides adequate shine without excessive heaviness. The controlled viscosity ensures the film is thin enough to feel light while containing enough reflective components for desired shine.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a film with varying properties: the aqueous phase provides hydration and lightness, while the oily phase and polymers provide shine and structure. This local differentiation of functional properties within the emulsion allows simultaneous achievement of shine and comfort.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

3Ease of operation

If the fluidity of the emulsion is increased to provide a refreshing sensation, then the comfort is improved, but the stability deteriorates over time

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovefluidityVSAvoidemulsion stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs a composite emulsion system with carefully balanced aqueous and oily phases, stabilized by film-forming polymers and emulsifiers. This composite structure maintains stability over time while preserving good fluidity for comfortable application, as each component contributes to both stability and flow characteristics.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent sets the viscosity within a specific range (1000-5000 mPa.s) that balances fluidity and stability. This parameter control ensures the emulsion remains stable during storage while maintaining sufficient fluidity for refreshing application and good spreadability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Object-affected harmful factors

If the amount of binding agents is reduced to minimize stickiness, then the comfort is improved, but the stability deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovestickinessVSAvoidemulsion stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent reduces the concentration of traditional binding agents while compensating by optimizing the natural stabilizing properties of the emulsion system. By adjusting the phase ratio and using film-forming polymers that provide stability through their structural network rather than through high concentrations of binding agents, the patent achieves low stickiness without compromising stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent extracts and minimizes the role of conventional binding agents by relying instead on the inherent stabilizing capabilities of the emulsion system components. This extraction of the binding agent function from traditional additives allows the system to maintain stability through the optimized combination of aqueous and oily phases and film-forming polymers.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The emulsion offers a refreshing, thin, and non-sticky application with excellent hydration and shine, maintaining a supple, smooth sensation on the lips over time, while being stable and comfortable.

Implementation Method 1

a water-in-oil emulsion, the dynamic viscosity of which at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is preferably between 1,500 and 10,000 mPa.s, comprising an aqueous phase, oils, one or more volatile solvents, and a coloring matter

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion: Emulsion

Implementation Method 2

one or more volatile solvents, and a coloring matter

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEvaporation: Evaporation

Data Source

PatentEP3490523B1Cosmetic product for the lips in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and make-up process
Publication Date: 2026.02.25 LVMH RECH

AI summary

The invention concerns a water-in-oil emulsion for making up the lips, which is very fluid while remaining stable. For example, this emulsion contains at least 30% by weight of a mixture of oils, at least 30% by weight of water, 10 to 20% by weight of a volatile solvent, 2 to 4% by weight of ethyl cellulose, 1.5 to 2.5% by weight of a hectorite modified with an organic compound, said mixture of oils comprising isostearyl isostearate, at least one polyglycerol ester, and octyldodecanol.