D4 D5-Free Liquid Makeup with Silica Sebum Control

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Solution Overview

Problem

The challenge is to create commercially viable color cosmetic compositions that exhibit stable color, transfer resistance, and a matte finish over time, while being resistant to skin secretions, without using D4 and D5 solvents.

Innovation Solution

The compositions include a solvent system of methyltrimethicone and low viscosity dimethicone, a film former system of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS), surface-treated pigments, and a sebum-controlling system with silica shells and mica, all without D4 and D5.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If D4 and D5 solvents are used to achieve transfer-proofness and color stability, then the makeup exhibits stable color and transfer resistance, but the composition fails regulatory compliance due to environmental persistence concerns

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvetransfer resistanceVSAvoidenvironmental persistence
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent removes D4 and D5 solvents from the composition entirely, extracting the problematic substances while maintaining the core functional benefits through alternative solvent systems and film-forming agents that do not persist in the environment

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the solvent system by using alternatives with different volatility and persistence characteristics, thereby achieving the same transfer-proofness function without the harmful environmental persistence of cyclomethicones

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Duration of action of stationary object

If D4 solvent is used to achieve transfer-proofness through film formation, then the makeup becomes more stable and durable, but the composition contributes to environmental pollution

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvemakeup durabilityVSAvoidenvironmental pollution
Core Design Contradiction:
Duration of action of stationary objectVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts D4 from the formulation while replacing its film-forming function with alternative agents that provide comparable durability without generating environmental pollution

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent employs solvent and film-forming systems that are environmentally degradable and do not persist in the environment, replacing the long-lasting but polluting D4 with shorter-lived, benign alternatives

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

3Manufacturing precision

If pigments are ground and predispersed in silicone solvent to improve color strength, then optimal pigment dispersion is achieved, but the process becomes more complex without D4 and D5

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepigment dispersionVSAvoidformulation complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
Manufacturing precisionVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent adjusts pigment particle size parameters and surface treatment characteristics to achieve optimal dispersion in the alternative silicone solvent system, compensating for the absence of D4 and D5 through controlled particle morphology and surface properties

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

This solution achieves color-fastness, transfer resistance, and a pleasant feel over time, while maintaining a matte finish and resisting skin secretions, thereby addressing the need for D4 and D5-free cosmetic compositions.

Implementation Method 1

D4 dries, and forms a film on the skin that renders makeup coverage more stable and durable

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEvaporation: Evaporation

Implementation Method 2

a film former system comprising trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS)

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectFilm formation: Deposition (physical)

Implementation Method 3

the pigments may be surface treated. Dispersants may also be used to prevent agglomeration of previously dispersed pigment

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurface treatment: Adsorption

Implementation Method 4

a sebum-controlling system comprising one or more of silica shells, platy mica, and sebum regulators

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAbsorption: Absorption (physical)

Data Source

PatentUS20250127692A1Liquid Makeup Compositions
Publication Date: 2025.04.24 ELC MANAGEMENT LLC

AI summary

Cosmetic compositions are water-in-silicone emulsions that are free of D4 and D5. The external phase comprises a solvent system of methyltrimethicone and low viscosity dimethicone; a film former system comprising trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS); rheology modifiers; a pigment system that comprises one or more pigments that are surface treated with triethoxycaprylylsilane; and a first part of a sebum-controlling system that comprises spherical and ellipsoidal silica shells. The aqueous phase may comprise a second part of the sebum-controlling system, water-soluble skin care actives and a preservative system.