Liquid Polyester Structuring for Non-Greasy Cosmetic Finish
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Solution Overview
Problem
Cosmetic compositions with structured liquid phases often exhibit unsatisfactory texture, being excessively slippery and greasy, with heterogeneous color distribution and poor durability, due to the use of waxes and mineral silica, and sticky gloss oils.
Innovation Solution
A cosmetic composition featuring a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers or trimers with butanediol, which structures the oily phase without the need for high amounts of lipophilic gelling agents, providing a pleasant, non-sticky, and homogeneously colored finish with improved gloss durability.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Stability of the object's composition
If waxes and mineral silica are used to structure the liquid phase, then the composition gains structure and consistency, but the texture becomes excessively slippery and greasy
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical parameters of the structuring agent by using esters of dimerlinoleic acid with specific molecular weights (500-2000 g/mol) and controlled viscosity (20-500 cSt), replacing traditional waxes and mineral silica. This parameter optimization provides structuring while eliminating the slippery and greasy texture issues.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent employs a composite approach by combining multiple ester components with different molecular weights and viscosities, along with film-forming agents and volatile oils, to create a structured liquid phase that achieves both structural integrity and comfortable non-greasy texture.
2Stability of the object's composition
If waxes and mineral silica are used to structure the liquid phase, then the composition gains structure, but the color distribution becomes heterogeneous
Solution Approach 1:
The patent optimizes the viscosity parameter of the structuring esters (20-500 cSt) to achieve a balance between providing sufficient structure and maintaining adequate fluidity for homogeneous color distribution, eliminating the heterogeneous color problem associated with highly viscous waxes and silicas.
3Duration of action of stationary object
If gloss oils are used to improve persistence of deposit, then the durability improves, but the composition becomes very sticky
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the molecular weight and viscosity parameters of the ester components, using medium-chain esters (500-2000 g/mol) with controlled viscosity (20-500 cSt) that provide sufficient persistence and durability without the excessive stickiness characteristic of high-viscosity gloss oils.
4Stability of the object's composition
If lipophilic gelling agents are used to structure the oily phase, then the composition gains structure, but large amounts are required achieving excessive greasiness
Solution Approach 1:
The patent optimizes the molecular weight and viscosity parameters of the ester structuring agents, enabling effective structuring at lower concentrations (5-50 wt.%) compared to traditional lipophilic gelling agents, thereby reducing the quantity needed and minimizing greasiness.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition offers a comfortable, non-migratory, and homogeneously colored finish with enhanced gloss and color durability, addressing the shortcomings of traditional structured liquid phases.
Implementation Method 1
at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a cosmetic make-up or care composition comprising an oily phase comprising at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and diol, said composition being free from lipophilic gelling agent or comprising at the most 10 wt.% thereof, relative to the weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a method of make-up of the face and body comprising the use of said composition.