Macroscopic Dispersion with High Cationic Polymer Shell
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing cosmetic dispersions face challenges in achieving high pigment content in the dispersed fatty phase while maintaining stability, sphericity, and mechanical strength of droplets, along with sensory benefits like lightness, freshness, and hydration.
Innovation Solution
A dispersion with droplets having a shell comprising both anionic and cationic polymers, where the cationic polymer content is significantly increased, specifically between 10.8 μmol and 32.4 μmol per gram of fatty phase, to enhance sphericity and mechanical strength.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Quantity of substance
If high contents of pigments are added to the dispersed fatty phase, then coverage and visual results are improved, but stability and mechanical strength of droplets deteriorate
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies parameter changes by optimizing the cationic polymer content to a specific range (10.8-32.4 μmol amine functions per gram of fatty phase) and adjusting the ratio between anionic and cationic polymers. This quantitative adjustment resolves the contradiction by providing sufficient polymer to maintain droplet stability even at high pigment concentrations (above 10% w/w), thereby achieving both high coverage and droplet stability simultaneously
Solution Approach 2:
The patent uses composite materials by combining both anionic and cationic polymers in the droplet shell formulation. This composite approach creates a synergistic effect where the two polymers work together to provide enhanced structural integrity to the droplets, allowing them to maintain mechanical strength and stability even when containing high pigment loads that would otherwise compromise droplet integrity
2Quantity of substance
If high contents of pigments are added to the dispersed fatty phase, then coverage is improved, but sphericity and mechanical strength of droplets deteriorate
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies parameter changes by precisely controlling the cationic polymer content (10.8-32.4 μmol amine functions per gram of fatty phase) and the ratio of anionic to cationic polymers. This optimization ensures that the droplet shell maintains sufficient elasticity and structural integrity to preserve spherical shape even under the stress of high pigment content, thereby achieving both high coverage and maintained sphericity
3Reliability
If cationic polymer content is increased to improve sphericity and mechanical strength, then droplet stability is improved, but the interaction with pigments may reduce polymer availability for shell formation
Solution Approach 1:
The patent resolves this contradiction through parameter changes by identifying and implementing an optimal range for cationic polymer content (10.8-32.4 μmol amine functions per gram of fatty phase). Within this range, sufficient cationic polymer is present to ensure droplet stability and shell formation, while preventing excessive polymer-pigment interactions that would reduce polymer availability. The balanced ratio of anionic to cationic polymers further optimizes shell formation efficiency
Solution Approach 2:
The patent uses anionic polymer as an intermediary that mediates between cationic polymer and pigment interactions. The anionic polymer preferentially binds to pigments, reducing direct competition between pigments and cationic polymer for binding sites. This intermediary role ensures that cationic polymer remains available for shell formation and droplet stabilization, even at higher concentrations needed for improved droplet integrity
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The proposed solution achieves improved sphericity and mechanical strength of droplets, maintaining the benefits of high pigment content, long-lasting visual results, flawless coverage, and a lightweight, fresh sensation on application.
Implementation Method 1
the droplets comprise at least one shell and pigments, said shell being formed of at least one anionic polymer comprising at least one carboxylic acid function, and of at least one cationic polymer comprising at least two amine functions
Data Source
AI summary
The disclosure relates in general to macroscopic dispersions having high cationic polymer and pigment content, as well as to uses thereof in the cosmetic domain, and in particular to the uses thereof as a makeup composition, especially as foundation.


