Mascura Composition Using Lβ Lamellar Phase for Texture Stability
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Solution Overview
Problem
Conventional mascara compositions face challenges with stability over time and temperature, difficulty in controlling texture, and limited playtime during application, leading to clumping and uneven deposition on eyelashes.
Innovation Solution
A cosmetic composition for keratin fibers utilizing an Lβ lamellar phase with a specific surfactant system comprising nonionic surfactants of varying HLB values, combined with film-forming polymer particles, to create a stable, volumizing, and easy-to-apply mascara that maintains consistency and water resistance.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Volume of moving object
If conventional mascara formulations with high wax content are used to achieve volumizing effect, then the volume and intensity of eyelashes are improved, but the texture control becomes difficult and the composition may become solid at elevated temperatures
Solution Approach 1:
The invention changes the physical-chemical parameters of the formulation by using anhydrous conditions (absence of water) and specific wax combinations with defined melting points, allowing the composition to maintain stability at 45°C while still providing volumizing effect. The parameter change from aqueous to anhydrous system fundamentally alters the temperature-stability profile.
Solution Approach 2:
The invention uses a composite wax system combining multiple waxes with different properties (beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, microcrystalline wax) to achieve both volumizing effect and temperature stability. This composite approach allows the formulation to maintain solid structure at room temperature for volume while remaining applicable, and stabilizes at elevated temperatures.
2Reliability
If anhydrous mascara formulations are used to achieve good water resistance, then water resistance is improved, but the volume level decreases and make-up removal becomes difficult
Solution Approach 1:
The invention adjusts the composition parameters by incorporating specific wax types and ratios (20-40% total wax content with specific distribution among different waxes) that provide both water resistance and volume. The anhydrous base with optimized wax composition achieves water resistance while the volumizing effect is maintained through proper formulation balance.
Solution Approach 2:
The use of a composite wax system with multiple natural and synthetic waxes provides both water resistance properties and volumizing effect. The combination of beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and microcrystalline wax creates a matrix that resists water while building volume on the eyelashes.
3Volume of moving object
If high dry extract content is increased to improve volumizing power, then the thickening power and volume effect are improved, but the texture becomes too thick and difficult to apply
Solution Approach 1:
The invention optimizes the dry extract content parameter within a specific range (35-60% of total composition) and controls the viscosity through the anhydrous formulation system. This parameter optimization ensures the composition has enough solids for volumizing power while remaining fluid enough for easy application with a brush.
Solution Approach 2:
The invention creates local quality variations in the formulation by using a mixture of waxes with different hardness and melting point characteristics. This allows different regions of the applied coating to have appropriate properties - some areas providing volume structure while others maintain applicability and spreadability.
4Area of stationary object
If the number of brush strokes is increased to achieve adequate coverage, then the coverage is improved, but the playtime decreases and application becomes difficult after several strokes
Solution Approach 1:
The invention adjusts the viscosity and consistency parameters of the mascara composition through the anhydrous formulation and wax selection, extending the playtime to allow 20 or more brush strokes. The composition maintains its rheological properties during application, enabling adequate coverage without premature thickening or clumping.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition achieves enhanced stability, improved playtime, and a smooth, homogeneous deposition without clumping, even after two months, while providing a volumizing effect and good adhesion to eyelashes.
Implementation Method 1
A cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, in particular a mascara, comprising: an Lβ lamellar phase, and particles of film-forming polymer
Implementation Method 2
a specific surfactant system comprising nonionic surfactants of varying HLB values
Implementation Method 3
anhydrous or low water content mascaras, called waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents
Data Source
AI summary
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising: an aqueous phase; a surfactant system at a total concentration greater than or equal to 15 wt.-% in relation to the total weight of the composition, said surfactant system comprising (i) at least one non-ionic surfactant having a HLB value at 25°C of less than 8 and (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant having a HLB value at 25°C that is greater than or equal to 8, together forming a paracrystalline lamellar phase Lβ; and at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one film-forming polymer, said film-forming polymer(s) preferably being present at a dry-weight concentration greater than or equal to 5 wt.-%, preferably greater than or equal to 10 wt.-%, in relation to the total weight of the composition, it being understood that the composition can comprise at least one wax, said wax(es), when present, being present at a total concentration strictly below 10 wt.-% in relation to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a method for coating keratin fibres.