Mascara Composition Resolving Solid Content Spreadability Contradiction

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Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional mascaras lack resistance to water and moisture, leading to uneven application, crumbly texture, and poor staying power, while also being difficult to spread and remove effectively.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition with a high solids content and specific surfactant blend, including anionic and non-ionic surfactants, that forms a stable emulsion, ensuring smooth application, uniform deposition, and enhanced durability on eyelashes.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Quantity of substance

If the amount of solid particles (waxes) is increased to achieve volumizing effect and thickening power, then the make-up power and volume of eyelashes is improved, but the composition becomes difficult to spread and application becomes uneven

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveamount of solid particlesVSAvoidspreadability
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical-chemical parameters of the wax particles by controlling their size (0.1-10 μm) and morphology. This parameter change allows the solid particles to maintain high concentration for volumizing while improving spreadability through optimized particle dimensions that facilitate uniform distribution during application.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite emulsion system combining water, multiple waxes (beeswax, carnauba wax, paraffin wax), and surfactants. This composite material structure allows the solid particles to be dispersed uniformly in the aqueous phase, resolving the contradiction between high solid content and ease of spreading by integrating the particles into a cohesive emulsion matrix.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Quantity of substance

If the amount of solid particles (waxes) is increased to achieve volumizing effect, then the loading power is improved, but the mascara film becomes insufficiently resistant to water and tends to run or crumble

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveamount of solid particlesVSAvoidwater resistance
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs a composite emulsion system with multiple waxes (beeswax, carnauba wax, paraffin wax) and surfactants that work synergistically to create a water-resistant film. The combination of different wax types provides both volumizing power and durability, as each wax contributes different properties that collectively enhance water resistance while maintaining high solid particle content.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The surfactants in the emulsion system act as intermediaries between the hydrophobic wax particles and the aqueous phase. This intermediary role allows the solid particles to be uniformly dispersed and bound together, creating a cohesive film structure that resists water penetration and prevents running or crumbling, even with high solid particle concentration.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

3Ease of manufacture

If conventional emulsifying systems are used to disperse solid particles, then the composition can be formulated, but the pigments are not homogeneously dispersed and the texture is not sufficiently smooth

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveformulabilityVSAvoidhomogeneity of dispersion
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSManufacturing precision

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the particle size parameters of the waxes (0.1-10 μm) to achieve homogeneous dispersion. This parameter change ensures that the solid particles are fine enough to disperse uniformly throughout the aqueous phase while maintaining the necessary thickening power, thereby improving both manufacturability and dispersion homogeneity simultaneously.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses a composite emulsion system combining multiple waxes and surfactants that work together to achieve uniform dispersion of both wax particles and pigments. This composite approach creates a stable matrix that facilitates homogeneous distribution of all solid components, resolving the contradiction between ease of formulation and manufacturing precision.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition provides a long-lasting, water-resistant mascara with improved spreadability and easy removal, maintaining a smooth, volumizing effect and intense color.

Implementation Method 1

Compositions for coating keratinous fibres with such a type of mascara generally consist of at least one fatty phase generally formed of one or more waxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifying system

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion: Emulsion

Implementation Method 2

These solid particles are dispersed in the cream mascara by means of an emulsifying system composed of one or more surface-active agent(s)

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectDispersion: Dispersion (of waves)

Implementation Method 3

an emulsifying system composed of one or more surface-active agent(s)

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant: Surfactant

Data Source

PatentEP2874597B1Cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibres
Publication Date: 2019.01.02 LOREAL SA
  • EP2874597B1 patent drawing
  • EP2874597B1 patent drawing
  • EP2874597B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibres of the emulsion type, comprising: - an aqueous phase, - at least one wax, - an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant, - at least one film-forming polymer present in a solids content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, - at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent, in which the wax(es) and the emulsifying system are present at a respective total content such that the ratio by weight of the wax(es) to the emulsifying system is less than or equal to 1. The present invention also relates to a method for coating keratinous fibres, in particular for making up the eyelashes, comprising a stage of application of the said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibres.