Merocyanine UV Screening with N-Substituted Amide Solubility
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current photoprotective cosmetic compositions have insufficient efficiency against long UVA radiation and often suffer from poor solubility in oily phases and photostability issues, leading to inadequate protection and cosmetic acceptability.
Innovation Solution
Incorporating specific N-substituted amides into cosmetic compositions containing merocyanines, which improves their solubility in oily phases and stability, even in the presence of additional UV-screening agents.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If merocyanines are used as UV-screening agents, then protection against long UVA radiation is improved, but solubility in oily phases deteriorates
Solution Approach 1:
The patent modifies the chemical structure of merocyanines by introducing specific substituents (such as alkyl chains, alkoxy groups, or cyclic structures) to alter their solubility parameters. This allows the molecules to better interact with oily phase components while retaining their UV-absorbing properties, thus resolving the contradiction between UV protection efficiency and solubility.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates composite formulations by combining merocyanines with specific oily phase components (such as esters, triglycerides, or silicone oils) that have complementary solubility characteristics. This composite approach allows the merocyanine to dissolve effectively in the oily phase while maintaining its photoprotective function.
2Reliability
If merocyanines are used as UV-screening agents, then protection against long UVA radiation is improved, but photostability deteriorates
Solution Approach 1:
The patent introduces electron-donating or electron-withdrawing substituents on the merocyanine molecular structure to modify its electronic distribution and energy levels. This structural modification reduces the molecule's susceptibility to photo-degradation while preserving its ability to absorb UV radiation, thereby improving photostability without sacrificing UV protection efficiency.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent incorporates stabilizing substituents or auxiliary molecules in the formulation that act as 'cushioning' elements, protecting the merocyanine from photo-oxidation or other degradation pathways before they can occur. These protective elements are built into the molecular structure or formulation design in advance.
3Stability of the object's composition
If N-substituted amides are added to improve solubility, then solubility in oily phases is improved, but device complexity increases
Solution Approach 1:
The patent selects N-substituted amides that serve multiple functions simultaneously: they act as solubility-enhancing agents, UV-screening agents themselves, and formulation stabilizers. This multi-functionality reduces the need for additional separate ingredients, thereby limiting the increase in formulation complexity while achieving improved solubility.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent combines the solubility-enhancing function with the UV-protection function by using N-substituted amides that possess both properties. This merging of functions allows a single ingredient to address multiple requirements, simplifying the overall formulation despite the added complexity of selecting appropriate amide structures.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
Enhances the solubility and photostability of merocyanines in oily phases, providing more effective UV protection across the entire UV spectrum without compromising cosmetic acceptability.
Implementation Method 1
at least one oily phase comprising at least one N-substituted amide... enhances the solubility and photostability of merocyanines in oily phases
Implementation Method 2
merocyanines... very good screening properties in the long UVA radiation range... absorb in the wavelength range between 280 and 370 nm
Implementation Method 3
improves their solubility in oily phases and stability, even in the presence of additional UV-screening agents
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one merocyanine of formula (1) or (2) b) at least one oily phase comprising at least one N-substituted amide of formula (4): The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition as defined above. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.