Merocyanine UV Filter Emulsion with Amphiphilic Polymer Stabilizer
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current photoprotective cosmetic compositions are insufficiently effective against UV rays, particularly long UVA rays beyond 370 nm, and often suffer from unsatisfactory solubility, chemical stability, and photostability issues, leading to cosmetic drawbacks such as a greasy effect and coloration that discourages consumer use.
Innovation Solution
A cosmetic composition in emulsion form comprising an aqueous phase, an oily phase, a merocyanine compound of formula (1), and an emulsifying system with an amphiphilic polymer containing 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid units, which enhances the stability and solubility of merocyanines, providing improved photoprotection without increasing melanin pigment load or affecting skin elasticity.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If conventional organic UV-screening agents are used, then photoprotection against UV rays is provided, but solubility and stability issues occur leading to greasy effects and coloration
Solution Approach 1:
The patent uses merocyanine compounds as intermediary substances that absorb UV radiation (particularly long UVA rays beyond 370 nm) through their extended conjugated systems, converting harmful UV energy into harmless thermal energy without producing the greasy effects or unwanted coloration associated with conventional organic UV filters. The merocyanines act as a bridge between UV protection needs and cosmetic acceptability
Solution Approach 2:
The invention changes the chemical structure parameters of UV-screening agents by employing merocyanine compounds with specific conjugated systems and substituents (R groups being alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, cycloalkyl, or cycloalkenyl groups). These structural modifications enable effective UV absorption while eliminating the cosmetic drawbacks of conventional agents, achieving both photoprotection and aesthetic acceptability
2Reliability
If merocyanine compounds are used for UV protection, then photoprotection against long UVA rays is improved, but chemical and photostability are insufficient
Solution Approach 1:
The patent creates a composite formulation by combining merocyanine compounds with specific emulsifying systems containing amphiphilic polymers comprising 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid units. This composite approach enhances the chemical and photostability of the merocyanines while maintaining their UV protection capabilities, solving the stability issue without compromising photoprotection effectiveness
3Stability of the object's composition
If emulsifying systems with amphiphilic polymers are used, then solubility and stability of merocyanines are enhanced, but formulation complexity increases
Solution Approach 1:
The patent utilizes the specific chemical parameters of 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid-containing polymers, which possess both hydrophilic and lipophilic characteristics. This amphiphilic nature allows the polymer to solubilize merocyanine compounds effectively while maintaining formulation simplicity. The specific functional groups and molecular structure of these polymers provide the necessary stability without requiring complex formulation approaches
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition achieves enhanced chemical and photostability of merocyanines, ensuring effective UV protection across the entire UV spectrum without adverse cosmetic effects, particularly improving skin quality and reducing signs of aging.
Implementation Method 1
an emulsifying system containing at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit
Implementation Method 2
enhances the stability and solubility of merocyanines, providing improved photoprotection
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition in emulsion form, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support: a) at least one aqueous phase, and b) at least one oily phase, and c) at least one merocyanine compound of formula (1) or one of the E/E- or E/Z-geometrical isomer forms thereof, in which: R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, the said groups possibly being interrupted by one or more O, and d) at least one emulsifying system containing at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit. Another subject of the present invention consists of a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the said keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.