Merocyanine UVA Cosmetic Composition

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current cosmetic compositions fail to provide broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays, particularly lacking effectiveness against long UVA rays beyond 370 nm, and often suffer from unsatisfactory solubility, chemical stability, and photostability, leading to cosmetic drawbacks such as greasiness and color issues.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition combining a merocyanine compound of specific formula with an amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound and a hydrophilic UVA-screening agent, which provides broad protection against UVA rays from 320 to 400 nm, ensuring photostability and cosmetic acceptability.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If conventional UV-screening agents are used, then protection against UVA and UVB rays is provided, but effectiveness against long UVA rays beyond 370 nm is insufficient

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveprotection effectivenessVSAvoidbroad-spectrum coverage

Core Design Contradiction:

ReliabilityVSAdaptability or versatility

Solution Approach 1:

The patent combines multiple UV-screening agents with different absorption characteristics (merocyanine compound for long UVA, amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone for mid UVA, and hydrophilic UVA-screening agent for broad coverage) to create a composite photoprotective system that achieves both high reliability and broad-spectrum coverage including long UVA rays beyond 370 nm

Inventive Principle:

Principle #5Merging (Combining)

2Reliability

If organic UV-screening agents are used, then photoprotective power is achieved, but solubility in fatty substances is unsatisfactory leading to greasiness

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvephotoprotective powerVSAvoidcosmetic acceptability

Core Design Contradiction:

ReliabilityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent assigns different solubility characteristics to different UV-screening agents in the formulation: liposoluble agents (merocyanine and amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone) are placed in the oily phase while hydrophilic UVA-screening agents are placed in the aqueous phase, allowing each agent to exert its photoprotective function in its optimal solubility environment while eliminating greasiness

Inventive Principle:

Principle #3Local quality

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite photoprotective system combining organic UV-screening agents with different solubility profiles (liposoluble and hydrophilic) in a biphasic formulation, achieving both high photoprotective power and cosmetic acceptability through synergistic interaction between components

Inventive Principle:

Principle #40Composite materials

3Reliability

If liposoluble organic screening agents are used, then UVA protection is achieved, but chemical stability and photostability are unsatisfactory

Engineering Contradiction:

ImproveUVA protectionVSAvoidchemical stability and photostability

Core Design Contradiction:

ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent formulates a composite photoprotective system where merocyanine compounds (highly photostable) are combined with amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives and hydrophilic UVA-screening agents, creating synergistic interactions that enhance overall chemical stability and photostability while maintaining effective UVA protection

Inventive Principle:

Principle #40Composite materials

4Adaptability or versatility

If merocyanine compounds are used, then broad UVA protection is achieved, but solubility in usual solvents is poor

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvebroad UVA protectionVSAvoidsolubility

Core Design Contradiction:

Adaptability or versatilityVSEase of manufacture

Solution Approach 1:

The patent segments the formulation into distinct liposoluble and hydrophilic phases, placing merocyanine compounds (which have poor solubility in usual solvents) in the liposoluble phase where they can be effectively dissolved in fatty substances, while hydrophilic UVA-screening agents are placed in the aqueous phase, allowing each component to achieve optimal solubility in its designated phase

Inventive Principle:

Principle #1Segmentation

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves significant absorbance up to 400 nm, ensuring effective protection against UVA rays while maintaining stability and cosmetic acceptability, reducing the risk of greasiness and color issues, thus improving skin quality and preventing signs of aging.

Implementation Method 1

They generally contain organic or mineral UV-screening agents, which function according to their own chemical nature and according to their own properties by absorption, reflection or scattering of the UV rays

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectAbsorption (EM radiation): Absorption (EM radiation)

Implementation Method 2

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectReflection: Reflection

Implementation Method 3

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectScattering: Scattering

Data Source

PatentEP2945603B1Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine and a UVA-screening agent of the amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone type and/or a hydrophilic organic UVA-screening agent

Publication Date: 2019.03.27 LOREAL SA

AI summary

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support: a) at least one oily phase; b) at least one merocyanine compound corresponding to formula (1) below, and also the E/E-or E/Z-geometrical isomer forms thereof, in which: R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, the said groups possibly being interrupted with one or more O, and c) at least one UVA-screening agent chosen from: (i) an amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound; (ii) a hydrophilic organic UVA-screening agent,and (iii) their mixtures; the said hydrophilic organic UVA-screening agent being present in an amount of greater than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application to the surface of the said keratin material of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or the improving the colour and/or the uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined previously. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined previously.