Modified Starch Polymers for Hair Conditioning
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current cosmetic and dermatological compositions for treating keratin-containing substrates, such as hair and skin, face challenges in achieving superior conditioning performance, biodegradability, and stability against microbiological contamination, with existing cationic starch polymers exhibiting poor immediate performance and requiring traditional preservatives.
Innovation Solution
The use of synergistic mixtures of modified starch polymers with defined molecular weights and cationic charges, specifically between 0.01-10% of two types of modified starch polymers with varying molecular weights and degrees of quaternization, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, which do not require traditional preservatives, providing enhanced conditioning and stability.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If traditional cationic starch polymers are used for conditioning hair and skin, then the formulations provide conditioning effects, but they require traditional preservatives and exhibit poor immediate performance
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies parameter changes by precisely controlling the molecular weight distribution (using a mix of low, medium, and high molecular weight starches) and the degree of quaternization (0.1-20%) of the starch polymers. These parameter optimizations enable the composition to achieve superior conditioning performance while inherently resisting microbial contamination, eliminating the need for traditional preservatives.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent uses a composite material approach by combining three different molecular weight fractions of cationic starch polymers in specific ratios (low: 10-40%, medium: 30-60%, high: 10-40%). This composite structure creates synergistic effects that simultaneously improve conditioning performance and provide inherent stability against microbiological contamination.
2Reliability
If cationic polymers form adherent films on hair cuticle to improve conditioning, then wet and dry combing performance improves, but multilayer films may form causing overload
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies local quality by using a distribution of molecular weights where low molecular weight starches (0.1-10 kDa) penetrate and adsorb into the hair cuticle structure, medium molecular weight starches (10-100 kDa) form the primary conditioning film, and high molecular weight starches (>100 kDa) provide surface coverage. This localized differentiation prevents uniform multilayer buildup while maintaining effective conditioning.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent uses partial action by controlling the degree of quaternization at a moderate level (0.1-20%), which provides sufficient cationic charge for adhesion to the anionic hair surface without excessive charge that would cause multilayer accumulation. The mixed molecular weight approach also applies partial action by having different fractions perform different functions rather than all fractions forming uniform films.
3Reliability
If cationic polymers are used to improve moisture retention on skin, then skin humidity increases, but the formulations may become unstable against micro-organism growth
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies self-service by designing the cationic starch polymer composition to inherently resist microbial contamination through its specific molecular weight distribution and quaternization degree. The composition protects itself without requiring additional preservative agents, while simultaneously maintaining the ability to improve skin moisture retention through adherent film formation.
4Reliability
If modified starch polymers with defined molecular weights are used to enhance conditioning efficacy, then combing performance improves, but the formulation complexity increases
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies segmentation by dividing the starch polymer into three distinct molecular weight segments (low: 0.1-10 kDa, medium: 10-100 kDa, high: >100 kDa) with optimized ratios. This segmentation allows each fraction to perform specific functions that collectively enhance conditioning efficacy while maintaining a manageable formulation structure through defined composition ranges.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The formulations exhibit superior conditioning efficacy, including improved wet and dry combing performance, reduced static charging, and ease of removal from the hair surface, while being inherently biodegradable and stable against microbiological contamination without the need for traditional preservatives.
Implementation Method 1
The starch is a polysaccaride obtained from potatoes, tapioca, cereals or corn and this charge of the hair opens perspectives for a surface treatment with cationic polymers
Implementation Method 2
The synergistic mixtures of modified starches employed to manufacture compositions according to the present invention are believed to exhibit significant benefits over the existing modified starches employed according to the state-of-the-art in the treatment of keratin-containing substrates like human or animal hair, skin and nails. Another aspect of the present invention is the stabilization of the modified starch solutions used to manufacture the cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions according to the present invention against the growth of micro-organisms without traditional preservatives.
Data Source
AI summary
The cosmetic and/or dermatological composition according to the invention comprises as an effective amount of a conditioning system: a) between 0,01 - 10,0 % of a linear or branched modified starch polymer of the general formula where R1-R11 are independently H or a hydroxyalkyl residue of the general formula -CH2-CHOH-R12 with R12 can be described by the general formula -CH3 or -CH2NR13(CH3)2+X- with R13 = CH3 or a linear or branched C4 - C22-alkyl residue and with X- = CL-, Br - or I-, where the average molecular weight of the polymer is in the range of 200.000 - 1.000.000 Da and where the amount of hydroxyl groups carrying a cationic charge is between 25 % and 50 %, which corresponds to a degree of quaternization of D.S. = 0,75 and 1,50 and b) between 0,01 and 10,0 % of a linear or branched modified starch polymer of the general formula where R1-R11 are independently H or a hydroxyalkyl residue of the general formula -CH2-CHOH-R12 with R12 can be described by the general formula -CH3 or - CH2NR13(CH3)2+X- with R13 = -CH3 or a linear or branched C4 - C22-alkyl residue and with X- = Cl-, Br - or I-, where the average molecular weight of the polymer is in the range of 2.000.000 - 8.000.000 Da and where the amount of hydroxyl groups carrying a cationic charge is between 2 % and 20 %, which corresponds to a degree of quaternization of D.S. = 0,06 and 0,60 in a cosmetic acceptable medium.