Monophasic Micellar Cleansing Composition with Cationic Polymers

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Solution Overview

Problem

Monophase micellar water struggles with low efficiency in removing longwear makeup, such as foundation and mascara, compared to oil-based removers, and existing alternatives can be harsh on the skin.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic cleansing composition incorporating a nature-based cationic polymer, like chitosan or polylysine, combined with an amphoteric surfactant, which forms a monophasic micellar water that effectively removes makeup without harsh chemicals, maintaining hydration and a refreshing sensation.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Productivity

If oil based makeup removers are used, then removal efficiency of longwear makeup is improved, but harshness to the skin increases

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveremoval efficiencyVSAvoidharshness to skin

Core Design Contradiction:

ProductivityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the cleansing composition by incorporating cationic polymers (chitosan, polylysine, cationic guar) combined with amphoteric surfactants, replacing traditional oil-based or harsh surfactant systems. This parameter change enables effective removal of longwear makeup while maintaining skin compatibility and hydration.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite cleansing system by combining cationic polymers with amphoteric surfactants in a monophasic micellar formulation. This composite approach integrates the makeup-removing capabilities of oil-based systems with the skin-gentle properties of water-based systems, achieving both high removal efficiency and skin compatibility.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #40Composite materials

2Adaptability or versatility

If polyethylene glycol surfactants are used, then alternative to oil based removers is provided, but harshness to the skin increases

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvealternative cleansing optionVSAvoidharshness to skin

Core Design Contradiction:

Adaptability or versatilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the surfactant parameters by replacing polyethylene glycol-based surfactants with amphoteric surfactants combined with cationic polymers. This substitution maintains the water-based gentle cleansing approach while eliminating the harsh effects associated with PEG surfactants.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent employs nature-based cationic polymers (chitosan from crustacean shells, polylysine from protein, cationic guar from plants) as biodegradable, skin-compatible alternatives to persistent synthetic surfactants. These natural polymers provide effective cleansing while being easily metabolized or degraded by the skin, avoiding accumulation of harsh chemicals.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

3Object-affected harmful factors

If nature-based cationic polymer is incorporated, then gentleness to skin is improved, but removal efficacy may be reduced

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvegentleness to skinVSAvoidremoval efficacy

Core Design Contradiction:

Object-affected harmful factorsVSProductivity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent creates a synergistic composite system where cationic polymers (providing skin gentleness and hydration) work together with amphoteric surfactants (providing effective makeup removal). The combination achieves both gentle skin compatibility and robust removal efficacy that neither component could achieve alone.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent optimizes the concentration parameters of cationic polymers (0.01-5% by weight) and amphoteric surfactants (0.05-10% by weight) to achieve the optimal balance between skin gentleness and makeup removal efficacy. This parameter optimization ensures that the nature-based polymer enhances rather than limits cleansing performance.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition demonstrates enhanced removal efficacy and hydration, comparable to or better than traditional solutions, while being gentler on the skin and free from harsh or unsustainable ingredients like PEG/POE surfactants.

Implementation Method 1

a cosmetic cleansing composition that includes a monophasic micellar water comprising: (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant... (b) at least one cationic polymer...

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectMicelle formation: Colloid

Implementation Method 2

at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount that is greater than about 0.05%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectSurfactant action: Surfactant

Data Source

PatentUS20250000777A1Monophase micellar cosmetic cleansing composition

Publication Date: 2025.01.02 LOREAL SA

AI summary

A cosmetic cleansing composition includes a monophasic micellar water that includes at least one amphoteric surfactant present from greater than about 0.05%, by weight, at least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan, polylysine, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or combinations thereof present from greater than about 0.01%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition and an aqueous carrier that includes at least water. The cosmetic cleansing composition has a pH in a range from about 4 to about 8, and may be essentially free or free of PEG/POE surfactants. When applied to remove makeup on keratinous tissue the cosmetic cleansing composition demonstrates effective cleansing of longwear foundation and lipstick.