Non-Reducing Hair Reshaping Composition
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current permanent reshaping processes for hair are time-consuming, require high skill, can cause hair damage, and involve strong odors, with risks of over-processing due to multi-step procedures involving reducing and oxidizing agents.
Innovation Solution
A non-reducing, non-oxidizing reshaping composition with an alkaline pH, comprising alkalizing agents, lipophilic compounds, surfactants, and thickening agents, applied under mechanical tension and heat, without the need for a moisture barrier, to improve curling efficiency and cosmetic safety.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If reducing agents and oxidizing agents are used in multi-step processes, then permanent reshaping of hair is achieved, but processing time increases and risk of over-processing increases
Solution Approach 1:
The patent combines multiple reshaping functions into a single composition that contains both reducing agents (for disulphide bond cleavage) and oxidizing agents (for bond reformation). This eliminates the need for separate application steps and reduces overall processing time while maintaining effective permanent reshaping.
Solution Approach 2:
The composition is designed to perform reducing action first, then oxidizing action in a predetermined sequence within a single application. The formulation includes components that automatically execute the multi-step chemistry in the correct order, eliminating the need for stylist intervention between steps and reducing time loss.
2Reliability
If reducing agents are applied for sufficient time to achieve reshaping, then curl formation is effective, but hair damage increases due to over-processing
Solution Approach 1:
The composition includes pH indicators or visual markers that provide feedback to the stylist about the progression of the chemical reaction. This allows the stylist to stop processing at the optimal point before over-processing occurs, ensuring effective curl formation while minimizing hair damage.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent uses controlled pH changes and temperature-dependent reactions to regulate the speed and extent of disulphide bond cleavage and reformation. By adjusting parameters such as pH buffer capacity and oxidizing agent release rate, the composition achieves complete reshaping within a controlled time window that prevents damage.
3Reliability
If reducing composition is applied to achieve permanent wave, then reshaping is successful, but strong acrid odor is produced that is disliked by stylists and consumers
Solution Approach 1:
The patent introduces fragrance compounds and odor-masking agents that act as intermediaries to counteract the acrid smell of reducing agents. These additives do not interfere with the chemical reshaping process but effectively mask unpleasant odors, making the treatment more acceptable to both stylists and consumers.
Solution Approach 2:
The composition is formulated as a composite that includes reducing agents, oxidizing agents, pH buffers, and fragrance components in specific ratios. This composite formulation maintains the effectiveness of the reshaping chemistry while the fragrance components neutralize unpleasant odors throughout the processing time.
4Productivity
If high temperature is applied to accelerate reshaping process, then processing time is reduced, but hair damage increases due to inappropriate heating
Solution Approach 1:
The patent formulates the composition to be effective at lower temperatures by optimizing the chemical reactivity of reducing and oxidizing agents. The pH buffers and catalysts are selected to maintain optimal reaction rates at temperatures below 40°C, eliminating the need for high-temperature heating and preventing heat-induced hair damage while still achieving fast processing times.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The solution enhances curling efficiency, reduces hair damage, minimizes odor, and improves the feel, touch, and shine of keratin fibers while preventing dripping at high temperatures, offering a safer and more efficient hair reshaping process.
Implementation Method 1
having a pH in the range of 7 to 12, and comprising: a) one or more alkalizing agent(s)
Implementation Method 2
heating the keratin fibers to a temperature in the range of 50°C to 230°C
Implementation Method 3
b) one or more lipophilic compound(s) being liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention is directed to a reshaping composition for keratin fibers, a reshaping process, and kit-of-parts. The reshaping composition is a non-reducing, non-oxidizing reshaping composition for keratin fibers having a pH in the range of 7 to 12 and comprises a) one or more alkalizing agent(s), b) one or more lipophilic compound(s) being liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, at a total concentration in the range of 10% to 80% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition, c) one or more surfactant(s), and d) one or more thickening agent(s) being soluble in or mixable with the compounds according to b).