Non-Aqueous Cosmetic Composition for Low-Temperature Active Solubilization

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions face challenges in incorporating skin care actives without causing solubility issues or phase separation, particularly at lower temperatures, and often rely on surfactants and silicones that raise environmental and safety concerns.

Innovation Solution

A non-aqueous cosmetic composition comprising C15-19 alkane, C9-13 alkane, isoamyl cocoate, cetyl ricinoleate, and Bidens pilosa extract, formulated to be surfactant- and silicone-free, ensuring stability and transparency while maintaining good spreadability and low viscosity.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If surfactants and silicones are used to solubilize actives, then solubility and dispersion are improved, but environmental sustainability and skin safety deteriorate

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesolubility stabilityVSAvoidenvironmental and skin safety
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention extracts and removes harmful substances (surfactants and silicones) from the cosmetic composition while maintaining the essential function of solubilizing active ingredients through alternative safe components

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention introduces intermediary substances (specific ester compounds and oil blends) that mediate between the active ingredients and the base formulation, enabling solubilization without requiring harmful surfactants or silicones

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

2Quantity of substance

If conventional formulation methods are used, then actives can be incorporated, but phase separation occurs particularly at lower temperatures

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveamount of active ingredientVSAvoidtemperature stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the physical and chemical parameters of the formulation system by using specific ester compounds and oil blends with appropriate phase behavior, raising the cloud point and preventing phase separation at lower temperatures while maintaining high active ingredient content

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of operation

If silicones are used for spreading, then spreading performance is improved, but environmental impact and safety concerns increase

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvespreading performanceVSAvoidenvironmental impact
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention removes silicones from the formulation while preserving the desired spreading performance through alternative ingredients such as ester compounds and oil blends that provide similar sensory properties without environmental concerns

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves stable solubilization of actives at lower temperatures, maintains transparency, and provides excellent sensory properties without phase separation, addressing environmental and safety concerns.

Implementation Method 1

Many of these actives have relatively low solubility in water as well as oils, and are difficult to formulate as such formulation leads to precipitation or phase separation of actives

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSolubilization: Solvation

Implementation Method 2

liquid compositions that are free of surfactants and silicones and are substantially transparent

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectTransparency:

Data Source

PatentEP4208146B1Non-aqueous cosmetic composition
Publication Date: 2026.04.08 ALMORA BOTANICA UK LTD
  • EP4208146B1 patent drawing
  • EP4208146B1 patent drawing
  • EP4208146B1 patent drawing

AI summary

According to the present invention, there is provided a non-aqueous cosmetic composition comprising: (A) 15-85% by weight C15-19 alkane; (B) 10-85% by weight C9-13 alkane; (C) One or both of (i) 1-10% by weight isoamyl cocoate, or; (ii) 1-25% by weight cetyl ricinoleate, and; (D) an active, wherein the weight ratio of the active to the rest of the composition is in the range 0.02:100 to 15:100, and the active is selected from: (i) extract of Bidens pilosa; (ii) cyclolinopeptides,; (iii) senkyunolides, (iv) sclareolide, or; (v) unsaponifiable fraction of vegetable oil.