Oil-Based Cosmetic Composition for High Gloss and Curl Retention

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing oil-based hair cosmetic compositions, such as mascara, face challenges in achieving high temperature stability, maintaining gloss, and ensuring effective color formation while providing volume, curl, and curl holding effects without becoming opaque or matte.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition combining dextrin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester with a specific substitution degree, and a liquid oil component, along with a volatile oil, to create a stable and glossy coating film that enhances color formation and maintains curl effects.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Strength

If solid oil components such as wax are contained in large amounts to improve volume effects and curl effects, then the volume effects and curl effects are improved, but the composition becomes opaque and the coating film becomes clouded matte quality, losing gloss

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvevolume effectVSAvoidgloss
Core Design Contradiction:
StrengthVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical state parameter of the oil component from solid (wax) to liquid (isoparaffin), which resolves the contradiction by maintaining volume and curl effects while preserving gloss and transparency of the coating film

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses a composite oil-based system combining liquid isoparaffin with specific gelling agents (dextrin fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester) to achieve both structural support for volume/curl effects and optical properties for gloss, avoiding the need for solid waxes

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Strength

If solid oil components such as wax are formulated to improve volume and curl effects, then the volume and curl effects are enhanced, but the color formation of coloring material and glossy substances becomes weak

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecurl effectVSAvoidcolor formation capability
Core Design Contradiction:
StrengthVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

By changing from solid wax to liquid isoparaffin as the base oil, the patent improves the optical clarity and chemical compatibility with coloring materials, thereby enhancing color formation capability while maintaining curl effects through the gelling agents

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Illumination intensity

If dextrin fatty acid ester is used as oil-based gelling agent to achieve high transparency of coating film, then the transparency is improved, but the oil-based gel becomes strong and uniform application of coating becomes difficult

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovetransparencyVSAvoiduniform application
Core Design Contradiction:
Illumination intensityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the concentration parameter of dextrin fatty acid ester and combines it with sucrose fatty acid ester, adjusting the gel strength to achieve the right balance between transparency and applicability, allowing uniform coating while maintaining film clarity

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite gelling system using both dextrin fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester, where the combination provides optimal gel strength for uniform application while maintaining high transparency of the coating film

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

4Ease of operation

If water-base or water-in-oil type emulsion system is used as base, then the composition provides moisture, but the eyelashes become moistened with water and sufficient curl retention effect is not obtained

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvemoisture provisionVSAvoidcurl retention time
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSDuration of action of stationary object

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts the water-based emulsion system and adopts a pure oil-based formulation with isoparaffin as the base, which eliminates excessive water content that causes moistening, while still providing necessary moisture through oil-soluble ingredients and achieving superior curl retention

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the base system from water-based to oil-based, fundamentally altering the moisture delivery mechanism from water to oil-soluble components, which provides sufficient moisture without compromising curl retention effectiveness

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves high temperature stability, maintains gloss, and effectively forms color while providing volume, curl, and curl holding effects, preventing the issues of opacity and matte finish.

Implementation Method 1

gives a coating film having a high gloss after evaporation of a solvent (e.g., volatile oil etc.)

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEvaporation: Evaporation

Data Source

PatentUS8080238B2Oil-based cosmetic composition
Publication Date: 2011.12.20 SHISEIDO CO LTD

AI summary

An oil-based cosmetic composition having high temperature stability, giving a coating film after evaporation of a solvent having a high gloss, and excellent in forming of a coloring material when the coloring matter, particularly a hair cosmetic composition such as mascara, etc., containing (a) a dextrin fatty acid ester, (b) a sucrose fatty acid ester having an average substitution degree of the ester of 3 to 8, and (c) an optional oil component which is solid at 30° C. in an amount of 5 mass % or less and, if desired, (d) a fluid oil which is liquid at 30° C. (i.e., not evaporating at an ordinary temperature) in an amount of 1 to 50 mass %, (e) a coloring material in an amount of 0.01 to 30 mass %, (f) a coating agent in an amount of 1 to 40 mass %, and (g) a volatile oil in an amount of 30 to 80 mass %.