Oxidizing Aqueous Dispersion for Keratin Fiber Treatment

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current oxidizing compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, are prone to instability during storage, leading to changes in microscopic appearance and rheological properties, resulting in reduced application and use qualities.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising an oxidizing agent, a nonionic amphiphic hydrophobic compound solid at ambient temperature, and optionally a cationic or zwitterionic hydrophilic surfactant, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, forming an aqueous dispersion with a specific weight ratio, which is stable and easy to emulsify, maintaining consistency over time.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of manufacture

If crystallizable compounds (e.g., cetylstearyl alcohol) are used as supports in oxidizing compositions, then the composition can be formulated and emulsified, but the composition becomes unstable during storage with changes in microscopic appearance and rheological properties

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveemulsification capabilityVSAvoidstorage stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the support compound by replacing traditional crystallizable compounds (cetylstearyl alcohol) with nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compounds that are solid at ambient temperature. This parameter change fundamentally alters the stability profile while maintaining emulsification capability. The new compounds have different molecular structures that prevent the crystallization and phase separation issues encountered with traditional supports.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates a composite emulsion system combining nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compounds with oxidizing agents in an aqueous medium. This composite material approach allows the formulation to maintain both manufacturability (emulsification) and storage stability by leveraging the amphiphilic nature of the new support compound, which provides both hydrophilic and hydrophobic interactions necessary for stable emulsion formation and long-term stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Ease of operation

If highly oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants are used for emulsification, then a smooth and creamy dispersion is achieved, but the composition requires large amounts of surfactant and becomes less stable

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedispersion smoothnessVSAvoidstorage stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the surfactant parameters by selecting nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compounds with specific molecular weight and hydrophobicity characteristics. These compounds require lower concentrations (0.1-10% by weight) compared to highly oxyethylenated surfactants, while providing equivalent or superior dispersion smoothness and enhanced storage stability. The optimal HLB range (2-10) and molecular weight (200-2000 Da) parameters are carefully controlled to achieve this balance.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention effectively replaces the function of highly oxyethylenated nonionic surfactants with a different class of compounds (nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compounds) that copy the emulsification function but with improved stability properties. The new compounds maintain the ability to produce smooth and creamy dispersions while eliminating the instability issues associated with traditional surfactant systems.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #26Copying

3Adaptability or versatility

If conventional oxidizing compositions are used for hair treatment, then dyeing, bleaching, and reshaping functions are achieved, but application qualities are reduced due to instability

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedyeing, bleaching, and reshaping capabilityVSAvoidapplication quality
Core Design Contradiction:
Adaptability or versatilityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the compositional parameters of oxidizing hair treatment products by incorporating nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compounds as supports. This enables the formulation to maintain versatile functionality for dyeing, bleaching, and permanent reshaping while significantly improving application qualities. The improved stability prevents changes in microscopic appearance and rheological properties, ensuring consistent application performance throughout the product shelf life.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention develops composite oxidizing compositions that integrate nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compounds with traditional oxidizing agents (hydrogen peroxide, persalts) and hair treatment additives. This composite material approach preserves the multi-functional adaptability (dyeing, bleaching, reshaping) while the unique properties of the nonionic support compound ensure stable rheological characteristics and consistent application qualities.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition provides stable and effective dyeing, bleaching, and reshaping of keratin fibers with improved cosmetic properties, ensuring colorfastness and damage protection against shampoos, light, and sweat.

Implementation Method 1

A composition for treating keratin fibers comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least one oxidizing agent; at least one nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compound which is solid at ambient temperature; and, optionally, at least one hydrophilic surfactant

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAmphiphilic compound emulsification: Emulsion

Implementation Method 2

In oxidation dyeing of the hair, oxidizing compositions are mixed with oxidation dyes (bases and couplers), which are colorless by themselves, in order to generate colored and coloring compounds via a process of oxidative condensation

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Data Source

PatentUS8642020B2Oxidizing aqueous dispersion for treating keratin fibers comprising at least one nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compound
Publication Date: 2014.02.04 LOREAL SA

AI summary

The subject of the present disclosure is a composition for treating keratin fibers comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one oxidizing agent; at least one nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compound which is solid at ambient temperature; and, optionally, at least one hydrophilic surfactant; wherein the weight ratio of the at least one hydrophilic surfactant to the at least one nonionic amphiphilic hydrophobic compound ranges from 0:1 to 0.16:1, on the condition that when the at least one hydrophilic surfactant is present, it must be chosen from cationic and zwitterionic hydrophilic surfactants; and further wherein the composition is in the form of an aqueous dispersion.