Oxidizing Composition Stabilization via Segmented Surfactant System

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing oxidizing compositions for hair dyeing, bleaching, and reshaping often destabilize due to high oil content, leading to poor stability and cosmetic properties, and fail to provide effective lightening or bleaching while maintaining hair integrity.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising at least 30% fatty substance, oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants with varying chain lengths, and hydrogen peroxide, in a specific ratio, to enhance stability and cosmetic properties while achieving strong, selective color and effective lightening or reshaping.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of manufacture

If high oil content (greater than or equal to 30% by weight) is incorporated into oxidizing compositions, then cosmetic properties and hair conditioning are improved, but emulsion stability deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic propertiesVSAvoidemulsion stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The surfactant system is segmented into two distinct components with different oxyalkylene chain lengths (4-12 units and 14-20 units), each contributing different functional properties. This segmentation allows the composition to simultaneously achieve high oil content stability and effective hair treatment, resolving the contradiction between cosmetic properties and emulsion stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses a composite surfactant system combining two different oxyalkylenated surfactants with specific chain length ranges. This composite approach creates a synergistic effect that stabilizes the emulsion while maintaining high fatty substance content (≥30%), thereby improving both cosmetic properties and composition stability simultaneously.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Ease of manufacture

If high oil content is used to improve cosmetic properties, then hair conditioning is enhanced, but composition stability over time deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic propertiesVSAvoidstability over time
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The surfactant system is segmented into two distinct components with different oxyalkylene chain lengths (4-12 units and 14-20 units), each contributing different functional properties. This segmentation allows the composition to simultaneously achieve high oil content stability and effective hair treatment, resolving the contradiction between cosmetic properties and emulsion stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses a composite surfactant system combining two different oxyalkylenated surfactants with specific chain length ranges. This composite approach creates a synergistic effect that stabilizes the emulsion while maintaining high fatty substance content (≥30%), thereby improving both cosmetic properties and composition stability simultaneously.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

3Ease of manufacture

If conventional oxidizing compositions are used for lightening or bleaching, then color change is achieved, but hair integrity and cosmetic properties are compromised

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvelightening effectivenessVSAvoidhair integrity
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention uses a composite surfactant system combining two different oxyalkylenated surfactants with specific chain length ranges. This composite approach creates a synergistic effect that stabilizes the emulsion while maintaining high fatty substance content (≥30%), thereby improving both cosmetic properties and composition stability simultaneously.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The invention changes the critical parameters of the surfactant system by specifying precise oxyalkylene chain length ranges (4-12 units for first surfactant, 14-20 units for second surfactant). This parameter optimization enables the composition to effectively lighten hair while preserving hair integrity and improving cosmetic properties.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition provides stable, effective dyeing, bleaching, and reshaping with improved cosmetic properties, maintaining hair integrity and resistance to external factors, and shows good stability over time, including at high temperatures.

Implementation Method 1

oxidizing compositions are used in the fields of dyeing, bleaching and permanently transforming or reshaping keratin fibres

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Implementation Method 2

Among the oxidizing agents conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibres, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydrogen peroxide: Hydrogen Peroxide

Implementation Method 3

an oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE), nonionic surfactant comprising a number of oxyalkylene units ranging from 1 to 9

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant: Surfactant

Data Source

PatentEP3389622B1Oxidizing composition for treating keratin materials, comprising a fatty substance and oxyalkylenated surfactants
Publication Date: 2023.01.04 LOREAL SA
  • EP3389622B1 patent drawing
  • EP3389622B1 patent drawing
  • EP3389622B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least one fatty substance in a content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE), nonionic surfactant comprising a number of OA units, preferably OE units, ranging from 1 to 9, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE), nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably OE units, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant(s) comprising a number of OA units, preferably OE units, ranging from 1 to 9 to the amount of oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably OE units, being greater than 1, at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. The composition in accordance with the invention may be used for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres. It produces ready-to-use compositions that give good dyeing, bleaching or permanent-reshaping properties without degrading the keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, and without impairing their cosmetic properties.