Peppermint Stem Extract Esterification for Skin Antioxidant Protection

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current cosmetic and dermatological compositions fail to effectively combat skin ageing caused by free radicals, which are accelerated by UV exposure, pollution, and climatic variations, leading to issues like loss of firmness, radiance, and skin dryness.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic or dermatological composition is developed using a peppermint extract obtained through hydroalcoholic solvent extraction and esterification with glycerol or octyl alcohol, enhancing its antioxidant properties to target and reduce free radicals, specifically utilizing a mixture of extracts with optimized ratios for increased efficacy.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If conventional plant extracts are used in cosmetic compositions, then the composition can provide some antioxidant activity, but the antioxidant effectiveness is insufficient to effectively combat skin ageing caused by free radicals

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveantioxidant effectivenessVSAvoidfree radicals causing skin ageing
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies parameter changes by modifying the chemical structure of rosmarinic acid through esterification with glycerol or octyl alcohol, creating new compounds (formula I and formula II) with enhanced antioxidant properties. This chemical modification increases the molecule's ability to scavenge free radicals and protects against skin ageing, directly resolving the insufficiency of conventional extracts.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates composite antioxidant systems by combining multiple extracts (hydroalcoholic extract, esterified extract with glycerol, and esterified extract with octyl alcohol) in specific ratios within the cosmetic composition. This composite approach synergistically enhances the overall antioxidant capacity, allowing the composition to effectively combat free radicals that single extracts cannot handle alone.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Quantity of substance

If natural plant extracts are used to combat free radicals, then the composition can offer antioxidant protection, but the concentration of active compounds is insufficient for optimal efficacy

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveconcentration of active compoundsVSAvoidantioxidant activity
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs selective extraction methods using hydroalcoholic solvents to isolate and concentrate specific active compounds (rosmarinic acid and its derivatives) from peppermint stems. This targeted extraction process increases the concentration of bioactive substances in the final extract, ensuring sufficient quantity for optimal antioxidant efficacy in the cosmetic composition.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent modifies the chemical parameters of the extract through esterification reactions, which change the molecular properties and increase the bioavailability and stability of active compounds. This chemical transformation enhances the concentration and effectiveness of antioxidant substances, allowing for higher active compound levels in the cosmetic formulation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Reliability

If the extract is made more potent through chemical modification, then the antioxidant properties are enhanced, but the extraction and processing complexity increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveantioxidant propertiesVSAvoidextraction and processing steps
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the chemical parameters of rosmarinic acid through controlled esterification reactions with glycerol or octyl alcohol, creating derivatives (formula I and formula II) with enhanced antioxidant properties. These parameter changes improve bioavailability and cellular uptake, enhancing antioxidant efficacy while maintaining a relatively straightforward processing approach.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses esterification as an intermediary chemical transformation that bridges the gap between conventional rosmarinic acid and the desired enhanced antioxidant activity. This intermediate step (esterification) serves as a mediator that improves the pharmacological properties and cellular penetration of the active compounds without requiring overly complex extraction or processing systems.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition demonstrates significantly high antioxidant activity, effectively reducing free radicals and addressing symptoms of skin ageing, with the specific extraction method resulting in higher concentrations of active compounds that enhance bioavailability and cell compartment targeting.

Implementation Method 1

extraction of peppermint stems with a mixture of hydroalcoholic solvents

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSolvent extraction: Liquid-Liquid Extraction

Implementation Method 2

esterification with glycerol, said peppermint extract (I) comprising at least a compound of formula (I)

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEsterification: Chemical Bonding

Data Source

PatentUS10869823B2Cosmetic composition comprising a peppermint extract
Publication Date: 2020.12.22 CHANEL PARFUMS BEAUTE SAS
  • US10869823B2 patent drawing
  • US10869823B2 patent drawing
  • US10869823B2 patent drawing

AI summary

Cosmetic or dermatological composition including, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a hydrophilised extract of peppermint stems and use of such a composition as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological composition.