Polycondensate Gloss and Durability in Cosmetics
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing cosmetic compositions fail to maintain long-lasting gloss and durability on keratinous materials such as lips, nails, and hair, due to instability of unsaturated fatty acids and the use of metal salts which are toxic.
Innovation Solution
Development of novel polycondensates with specific compositions and structures, including polyols, non-aromatic monocarboxylic acids, aromatic monocarboxylic acids, and polycarboxylic acids, which are synthesized to provide improved gloss, durability, and solubility in cosmetic media, avoiding the use of toxic metal salts.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Illumination intensity
If unsaturated fatty acids are used in polycondensates to improve film-forming properties and gloss, then the gloss and film-forming capability are enhanced, but the stability deteriorates due to autooxidation of unsaturated bonds over time
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical parameters of the fatty acid components by specifying saturation levels (0-10% unsaturated, 90-100% saturated) and chain lengths (C12-C36) to eliminate autooxidation while preserving film-forming properties through careful selection of saturated fatty acid structures
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates a composite polycondensate system combining multiple saturated fatty acids with specific chain lengths and structures, along with polyols and polycarboxylic acids, to achieve both gloss and stability through synergistic material composition
2Speed
If metal salts are used to accelerate drying rate of alkyd resins, then the drying speed is improved, but the reliability deteriorates due to toxicity concerns in cosmetic applications
Solution Approach 1:
The patent removes metal salt catalysts from the composition entirely, replacing them with alternative drying mechanisms based on the molecular structure and oxidation resistance of the selected saturated fatty acids and polycondensate formulation
Solution Approach 2:
The patent introduces organic peroxides as intermediary substances to facilitate crosslinking and drying processes without requiring toxic metal salts, using compounds like dibenzoyl peroxide or benzoyl peroxide as safe alternatives
3Reliability
If complex multi-step reactions are used to synthesize polycondensates with specific properties, then the performance is improved, but the ease of manufacture deteriorates
Solution Approach 1:
The patent segments the synthesis process into distinct stages: first forming ester bonds between polyols and fatty acids, then adding polycarboxylic acids for polycondensation, allowing controlled reaction progression and simplifying manufacturing while achieving target molecular weights and properties
Solution Approach 2:
The patent optimizes reaction parameters including temperature ranges (100-220°C), pressure conditions, and catalyst selection (titanium alkoxides, stannous octoate) to enable efficient synthesis under controlled conditions that balance performance achievement with manufacturing ease
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The polycondensates achieve excellent gloss maintenance and long-lasting durability on keratinous materials, are easily synthesized, and are soluble in common cosmetic solvents, making them suitable for use in lipsticks and other cosmetic products.
Implementation Method 1
gloss of the deposited film, after application on keratinous materials
Implementation Method 2
organopolysiloxane having at least 2 groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds
Data Source
AI summary
The present application relates to a polycondensate that can be obtained by reaction:of polyol containing 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups;of non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid;of aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing 7 to 11 carbon atoms; andof polycarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, branched and/or cyclic, containing at least 2 carboxyl groups COOH; and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid.The application also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment employing said composition, the polycondensate thus defined and a method of preparation of the polycondensate.


