Ester-Terminated Poly(ester-amide) Film for Wear and Application

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Solution Overview

Problem

Cosmetic makeup compositions often suffer from poor wear properties, such as tackiness, thickening, or gel-like textures due to the use of film-forming agents, which can be uncomfortable and difficult to apply, while consumers seek fluid, lightweight products with long-lasting coverage and comfort.

Innovation Solution

An anhydrous fluid composition comprising ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer, volatile alkane, monoalcohol, and a particulate pigment phase, which forms a cohesive and adhesive film on the skin without causing discomfort, ensuring easy application and long-lasting wear.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If film-forming agents are used to improve wear properties, then the composition forms a cohesive and adhesive film on the skin, but the composition becomes tacky and difficult to apply

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewear propertyVSAvoidease of application
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the film-forming agent by using ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers with specific molecular weights (10,000-100,000 g/mol) and specific functional group compositions. This parameter optimization allows the polymer to form adequate films for wear resistance while maintaining fluidity and ease of application by controlling the balance between adhesive functionality and molecular mobility.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite system by combining the ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer with specific volatile alkanes (C7-C15) and monoalcohols (C2-C8). This composite formulation synergistically balances film-forming capability with fluidity, where the volatile components modulate the polymer's adhesive properties without causing excessive tackiness, resolving the contradiction between wear properties and ease of application.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If film-forming agents are used to improve wear properties, then the composition forms a persistent film on the skin, but the composition thickens or gels

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewear propertyVSAvoidcomposition consistency
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the molecular weight parameter of the poly(ester-amide) polymer within a specific range (10,000-100,000 g/mol) and controls the concentration of ester terminal groups. This parameter control prevents excessive polymer chain entanglement and intermolecular crosslinking that would cause gelation, while still providing sufficient film-forming capability for persistent wear properties.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent introduces volatile alkanes and monoalcohols as intermediary substances that mediate between the polymer chains. These intermediaries prevent direct polymer-polymer interactions that would lead to thickening and gelation, while still allowing the polymer to form coherent films on the skin for persistent wear resistance.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

3Ease of operation

If the composition is made fluid and lightweight for easy application, then the ease of application improves, but the wear properties and persistence on the skin deteriorate

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveease of applicationVSAvoidwear property
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent utilizes the phase transition properties of volatile alkanes (C7-C15) that are liquid at application temperature but evaporate quickly after application. This phase transition from liquid to gas allows the composition to be fluid during application for ease of use, then leaves behind the polymer film that provides persistent wear resistance as the volatile components evaporate.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #36Phase transitions

Solution Approach 2:

The patent ensures continuous useful action by having the ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer continuously form and maintain the film structure on the skin. While volatile components provide temporary fluidity for application, the polymer continuously builds and sustains the adhesive film that ensures long-lasting wear properties, creating a continuous protective layer.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #20Continuity of useful action

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves excellent wear properties, ease of application, and persistence on the skin, providing a comfortable and long-lasting makeup effect without the drawbacks of traditional film-forming agents.

Implementation Method 1

at least one volatile alkane

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEvaporation: Evaporation

Implementation Method 2

forms a cohesive and adhesive film on the skin

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAdhesion: Adhesive

Data Source

PatentEP3817824B1Fluid composition comprising an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer, a volatile alkane, a monoalcohol and at least one pigment
Publication Date: 2023.10.25 LOREAL SA
  • EP3817824B1 patent drawing
  • EP3817824B1 patent drawing
  • EP3817824B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a fluid composition, especially comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, and containing: a) at least one ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer; and b) at least one volatile alkane; and c) at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; and d) a particulate phase comprising at least one pigment. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined previously. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising -a composition as defined previously -a device for applying said composition to the keratin materials.