Creamy Water-in-Oil Emulsion Stabilized with Polyglyceryl Esters

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions with high water content in a water-in-oil emulsion are unstable, leading to premature breakage and loss of texture during storage and use.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition featuring a creamy water-in-oil emulsion stabilized with polyglyceryl esters, glutamic acid or its derivatives, and cosmetically acceptable glycols or diols, which allows for a fast, watery break during application while maintaining stability under various temperature conditions.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Stability of the object's composition

If conventional emulsifier systems are used to retain water phase in oil phase, then the emulsion can maintain its structure, but the product becomes unstable and breaks prior to application, losing its thick and creamy texture

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveemulsion stabilityVSAvoidtexture consistency
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the emulsifier system by using polyglyceryl esters (specifically polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and polyglyceryl-3 oleate) instead of conventional emulsifiers. This parameter change in the emulsifier chemistry enables the emulsion to maintain stability while preserving the thick and creamy texture through application, resolving the contradiction between emulsion stability and texture consistency.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent employs a composite emulsifier system combining multiple polyglyceryl esters (polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and polyglyceryl-3 oleate) working together. This composite approach creates a synergistic effect that enhances both the stability of the water-in-oil emulsion and the maintenance of creamy texture during application, overcoming the limitations of single emulsifier systems.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Quantity of substance

If high water content is included in the water-in-oil emulsion to provide hydrating benefits, then the product offers better moisturizing properties, but the emulsion becomes unstable and susceptible to separation

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewater contentVSAvoidemulsion stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the emulsifier parameters by incorporating polyglyceryl esters that are specifically effective at stabilizing high water content formulations. This parameter change in the emulsifier chemistry allows the emulsion to maintain stability even with elevated water content, enabling both hydrating benefits and emulsion stability to coexist.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Productivity

If the emulsion is formulated to break quickly during application to release water phase, then the product provides fast hydration, but the texture becomes thin and liquidous before application is complete

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehydration speedVSAvoidtexture stability
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the rheological parameters of the emulsion by using polyglyceryl ester emulsifiers that control the breakdown behavior. This parameter change enables the emulsion to maintain its thick and creamy texture throughout the application process while still providing effective hydration, resolving the contradiction between hydration speed and texture stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves a stable, creamy texture that remains intact during storage and use, with a rapid transition to a thin texture upon application, ensuring consumer satisfaction and environmental sustainability.

Implementation Method 1

A cosmetic composition featuring a creamy water-in-oil emulsion stabilized with polyglyceryl esters, glutamic acid or its derivatives, and cosmetically acceptable glycols or diols

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion stabilization: Emulsion

Implementation Method 2

The composition provides a substantially thick creamy initial texture transitioning to a thin texture, wherein the creamy emulsion is stabilized and not susceptible to separation

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectThixotropy: Thixotropy

Implementation Method 3

The composition provides a substantially thick creamy initial texture transitioning to a thin texture, wherein the creamy emulsion is stabilized and not susceptible to separation

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectPhase transition: Phase Change

Implementation Method 4

the creamy emulsion demonstrates breaking and release of the water phase upon rubbing application of the composition on a substrate

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectMechanical breakdown: Mechanical Force

Data Source

PatentUS12290582B2Creamy hydrating cosmetic composition in a water release emulsion
Publication Date: 2025.05.06 LOREAL SA

AI summary

A cosmetic composition in the form of a creamy emulsion having an internal water phase in an oil phase includes at least one polyglyceryl ester, a glutamic acid, or a derivative thereof, at least one cosmetically acceptable glycol or diol, at least one oil, water, and optionally one or more additives. The composition excludes mineral and organic UV filters. The creamy emulsion demonstrates breaking and release of the water phase upon rubbing application of the composition on a substrate. The composition demonstrates stability at temperatures in a range from about 5° C. to about 45° C. for a period of eight weeks and under freeze-thaw conditions that range from about −20° C. to about 25° C., where the stability is evidenced by lack of separation of the water and oil phases and/or maintaining rheological characteristics over time in the absence of rubbing on a substrate.