Polyglyceryl Esters Skin Penetration Composition

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing skin care active ingredients face challenges in penetrating the skin due to the barrier function of the skin, necessitating the development of a more effective skin penetration enhancer.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising a combination of at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with an HLB value of 13.0 or more and at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with an HLB value of 10.0 or less, along with a skin care active ingredient such as niacinamide, ascorbyl glucoside, phenylethyl resorcinol, or salicylic acid, enhances skin penetration.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Device complexity

If a single polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is used as a skin penetration enhancer, then the formulation is simple, but the skin penetration enhancement is insufficient

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveformulation simplicityVSAvoidskin penetration enhancement
Core Design Contradiction:
Device complexityVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses a composite formulation combining two different polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with distinct HLB values (one ≥13.0 and another ≤10.0). This composite approach creates synergistic effects that enhance skin penetration beyond what either component achieves alone, resolving the contradiction between formulation simplicity and penetration effectiveness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used to enhance skin penetration, then penetration is improved, but stickiness increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin penetration enhancementVSAvoidstickiness
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the HLB parameters of the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters used. By selecting esters with specific HLB values (≥13.0 and ≤10.0) and controlling their ratio (1:5 to 5:1), the formulation achieves effective skin penetration while managing the stickiness issue through parameter optimization rather than simply reducing the concentration of penetration enhancers.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Reliability

If conventional surfactants are used, then formulation is effective, but environmental friendliness is reduced

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveformulation effectivenessVSAvoidenvironmental impact
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent specifies particular molecular structure parameters for the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, including the number of glycerol units (2-4 units) and fatty acid chain lengths (specific carbon atom ranges). These parameter specifications ensure the surfactants are derived from natural sources and are environmentally friendly while maintaining formulation effectiveness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition improves the penetration of skin care active ingredients into the skin while maintaining stability and reducing stickiness, with a minimal energy requirement for preparation and using environmentally friendly, naturally derived surfactants.

Implementation Method 1

a combination of: (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value 13.0 or more; (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant: Surfactant

Data Source

PatentEP4337159B1Composition comprising skin care active ingredient and two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters
Publication Date: 2025.11.05 LOREAL SA
  • EP4337159B1 patent drawing
  • EP4337159B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (b) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, and more preferably 13.0 or more; (c) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9.0 or less; (d) at least one skin care active ingredient. The composition according to the present invention can enhance or improve the penetration of the ingredient (d) into the skin as compared to a case in which the combination of the ingredients (b) and (c) is not used.