Alkoxylated Polyol Esters for 24-Hour Skin Hydration

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic hydrating formulations, particularly those using alkoxylated polyol esters, have limited hydration and thickening properties, and their potential as hydrating agents has not been fully exploited, with previous compositions showing low propoxylation degrees and inadequate long-term skin hydration.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising esters of alkoxylated polyols, specifically sorbitol ethoxylated with over 120 moles of ethylene oxide and esterified with saturated fatty acids, which forms a mixture that can be used in various cosmetic formulations to maintain skin hydration for up to 24 hours and control viscosity.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of manufacture

If esters of alkoxylated polyols with low propoxylation degree are used, then the formulation can be manufactured with existing processes, but the hydration and thickening properties are insufficient

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovemanufacturabilityVSAvoidhydration capability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the degree of propoxylation parameter from low (5-50 mols) to high (more than 120 mols of propylene oxide per mol of polyol). This parameter change transforms the molecular structure to provide sufficient hydration and thickening properties while maintaining compatibility with existing cosmetic formulation processes

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses composite ester structures formed by reacting highly propoxylated polyols with fatty acids. This creates a composite material that combines the hydrating properties of highly alkoxylated polyols with the cosmetic compatibility of fatty acid esters, achieving both high hydration capability and ease of manufacture

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Speed

If conventional hydration agents like glycerin are used, then the formulation provides immediate hydration, but the hydration duration is limited and does not maintain skin hydration for extended periods

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehydration speedVSAvoidhydration duration
Core Design Contradiction:
SpeedVSDuration of action of moving object

Solution Approach 1:

The highly propoxylated polyol esters perform preliminary action by forming a reservoir of hydration capacity on the skin. The molecular structure with numerous propoxy units creates a sustained hydration effect that releases moisture over time, maintaining skin hydration for up to 24 hours rather than providing only immediate but short-lived hydration

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the molecular weight and alkoxylation degree parameters of the polyol esters. These parameter changes increase the molecular complexity and hydration capacity, enabling the substance to maintain skin hydration for extended periods while still providing effective hydration

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Device complexity

If polymers with high molecular weight are used to increase thickening power, then the viscosity control improves, but the compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients and sensory properties may be compromised

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvethickening powerVSAvoidcompatibility with cosmetic ingredients
Core Design Contradiction:
Device complexityVSAdaptability or versatility

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies local quality by creating esters with specific fatty acid chains attached to the propoxylated polyol backbone. This allows different regions of the molecule to perform different functions: the propoxylated portion provides thickening and hydration, while the fatty acid ester portions provide compatibility with cosmetic ingredients and desirable sensory properties

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates composite ester materials that combine highly propoxylated polyols with various fatty acids. This composite structure achieves high thickening power through the alkoxylated portion while maintaining versatility and compatibility through the esterified fatty acid portions, allowing use in multiple cosmetic formulation types

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition effectively maintains skin hydration for an extended period, enhances skin softness and flexibility, and is compatible with other cosmetic ingredients, providing a high hydrating power without irritating the skin and offering pleasant sensory properties.

Implementation Method 1

The skin is formed of three layers, the most internal one being designated as the hypodermis, the intermediate layer being designated as the derma, and the outermost layer being designated as the epidermis. In order that the skin stays healthy, it is important that the upper layer of the epidermis, the Stratum Corneum, is kept hydrated.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydration: Absorption (physical)

Implementation Method 2

it was surprisingly observed that the sensory effect that was produced could constitute the result of a hydration action caused by those polymers, which fact was subsequently confirmed by means of specific corneometry tests.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectViscosity control: Viscometer

Data Source

PatentEP2813209B1Hydrating composition, use of a hydrating composition and cosmetic formulation containing a hydrating composition
Publication Date: 2017.07.19 OXITENO S A IND E COMERCIO
  • EP2813209B1 patent drawingFigure 1

AI summary

The present invention describes a novel hydrating composition that comprises a mixture of esters of one or more alkoxylated polyols and finds applicability in the formulation of cosmetics for the skin. The composition according to this invention may be presented in solid form or in liquid form, in this case further comprising one or more surfactants, emollients, and optionally, water. The hydrating composition described in this invention is compatible with a great variety of emollients and other ingredients used in cosmetic formulations, and evidenced being capable of maintaining the skin hydrated for 24 hours.