Polyol Esters as Binders in Powder Cosmetics

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Solution Overview

Problem

Cosmetic compositions face challenges in finding ingredients with low environmental impact, renewable origin, and excellent functional and sensory properties, particularly in powder-based products where traditional binders like oils and silicones are not ideal.

Innovation Solution

The use of neopentyl glycol dipelargonate, glycerol tripelargonate, and pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate esters, derived from renewable sources, as a binding component in cosmetic compositions, which provide flow, film-forming, and binding properties, allowing for a non-unctuous film and improved spreadability, potentially replacing traditional binders.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If traditional binders like oils and silicones are used in powder-based cosmetic compositions, then good binding and film-forming properties are achieved, but environmental impact increases and renewable origin is lost

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvebinding and film-forming propertiesVSAvoidenvironmental impact
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the binding component by using polyol esters (neopentyl glycol dipelargonate, glycerol tripelargonate, pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate) instead of traditional oils and silicones. These esters maintain the necessary binding and film-forming properties while being derived from renewable sources with lower environmental impact, thus resolving the contradiction between performance reliability and environmental harm.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent employs biodegradable polyol esters that can be easily degraded in the environment, replacing persistent traditional binders. These ester-based binding components provide sufficient functionality for cosmetic use but decompose more readily, reducing long-term environmental accumulation and harm while maintaining effective performance during product use.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

2Object-affected harmful factors

If polyol esters from renewable sources are used as binding components, then environmental impact is reduced, but achieving excellent functional and sensory properties becomes more difficult

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveenvironmental impactVSAvoidfunctional and sensory properties
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses composite ester formulations combining multiple polyol esters (neopentyl glycol dipelargonate, glycerol tripelargonate, pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate) to achieve synergistic effects. This composite approach allows the binding component to exhibit both excellent functional properties (binding, film-forming, spreadability) and sensory properties (non-greasy feel, comfort) while maintaining renewable origin and low environmental impact.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent optimizes the molecular structure and composition parameters of the polyol esters to enhance their functional performance. By selecting specific polyols and fatty acid combinations, the esters achieve appropriate viscosity, film-forming capacity, and sensory characteristics comparable to or exceeding traditional binders, thus resolving the difficulty in achieving excellent functional and sensory properties from renewable sources.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of operation

If esters are used as binding components replacing oils and silicones, then non-unctuous film and improved spreadability are achieved, but formulation complexity increases

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovespreadabilityVSAvoidformulation complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs polyol esters that perform multiple functions simultaneously: binding powders together, forming flexible films, providing spreadability, and delivering non-greasy sensory properties. This multi-functionality reduces the need for separate ingredients and simplifies the overall formulation despite the specialized nature of the ester components, as a single binding component achieves what traditionally required multiple additives.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

These esters create a comfortable, non-greasy film with excellent spreadability and dispersion properties for pigments and sun filters, enhancing the sensory experience and performance of cosmetic products while reducing the need for metal catalysts and simplifying processing.

Implementation Method 1

neopentyl glycol dipelargonate forms a light film and has a dry effect, glycerol tripelargonate forms a light film having excellent spreadability

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectFilm-forming:

Implementation Method 2

have flow, film-forming and binding properties to powders and are particularly suitable for use as ingredients of the binding component

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAdhesion: Adhesive

Implementation Method 3

pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate forms a richer film and has excellent properties for the dispersion of colouring agents

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectDispersion: Dispersion (of waves)

Data Source

PatentUS10758466B2Powder-based cosmetic compositions containing pelargonic acid esters
Publication Date: 2020.09.01 NOVAMONT SPA

AI summary

Cosmetic composition comprising at least 35% by weight of a powder component and a binding component characterized in that it comprises at least one ester selected from neopentylglycol dipelargonate, glycerol tripelargonate, pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate and mixtures thereof.