Water-in-Oil Emulsion Coating via Polyphenol Polysaccharide Hydrogen Bonds

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions for keratin materials, such as skin care and makeup, lack ingredients that are environmentally friendly and compatible with various packaging types while providing long-lasting cosmetic effects resistant to mechanical friction, water, sebum, and cleansing products, and do not use silicones.

Innovation Solution

A water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising a continuous oily phase with plant oil and volatile alkane, and an aqueous phase with polyphenol, non-ionic polysaccharide, and polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactant with HLB ≤ 8, forming a coating agent via hydrogen bonds for enhanced persistence.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Duration of action of stationary object

If hydrophobic film-forming polymers (silicone resins, silicone acrylate copolymers) are used as coating agents to achieve long-lasting wear, then persistence of cosmetic effects is improved, but environmental impact and ingredient tolerance worsen

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepersistence of cosmetic effectsVSAvoidenvironmental impact and ingredient tolerance
Core Design Contradiction:
Duration of action of stationary objectVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by replacing silicone-based polymers with a water-in-oil emulsion system containing polyphenols, polysaccharides, and polyglycerolated surfactants. This parameter change achieves long-lasting wear through hydrogen bonding mechanisms while using environmentally friendly, naturally-derived ingredients that are better tolerated by consumers.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses a composite water-in-oil emulsion system combining multiple natural ingredients (polyphenols from plant extracts, polysaccharides, polyglycerolated surfactants) to create a coating agent that provides persistence comparable to or exceeding silicone-based polymers, while avoiding their environmental and tolerability issues.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Ease of operation

If water-in-oil emulsions are used to reduce tightness and drying effects, then sensory comfort is improved, but resistance to water and sebum may worsen

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesensory comfort on applicationVSAvoidresistance to water and sebum
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent creates a composite water-in-Oil emulsion system where the continuous oil phase provides sensory comfort and the dispersed aqueous phase containing polyphenols and polysaccharides forms a persistent film through hydrogen bonding. This composite structure achieves both sensory comfort and resistance to water and sebum simultaneously.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The invention applies local quality by having different phases serve different functions: the oil phase provides immediate sensory comfort upon application, while the aqueous phase with polyphenols and polysaccharides provides long-term persistence and resistance to external factors like water and sebum.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

3Object-affected harmful factors

If natural ingredients with little environmental impact are used, then environmental compatibility is improved, but persistence and resistance to mechanical friction and cleansing products may worsen

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveenvironmental impactVSAvoidpersistence and resistance to friction and cleansing
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the molecular interaction parameters by utilizing hydrogen bonding between polyphenols and polysaccharides to create a film with exceptional persistence. This natural ingredient combination achieves resistance to mechanical friction and cleansing products comparable to or exceeding synthetic polymers, while maintaining environmental compatibility.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention combines multiple natural ingredients (polyphenols, polysaccharides, polyglycerolated surfactants) into a composite water-in-Oil emulsion that provides persistence and resistance properties previously only achievable with silicone-based polymers, thereby reconciling environmental compatibility with performance requirements.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves long-lasting cosmetic effects resistant to mechanical friction, water, sebum, and cleansing products, with improved sensory comfort and compatibility with diverse packaging, without using silicones.

Implementation Method 1

the formation of a coating agent resulting from the interaction via hydrogen bonds, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, between the polyphenol X and the non-ionic polysaccharide

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydrogen bonds: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 2

a continuous oily phase comprising i) at least one plant oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEvaporation: Evaporation

Implementation Method 3

at least one polyglycerolated non-ionic, preferably non-silicone, surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant action: Surfactant

Data Source

PatentEP4514308B1Inverse emulsion comprising a polyphenol, a non-ionic polysaccharide, a polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactant with an HLB < 8, a polyol, a non-volatile plant oil, and a volatile alkane
Publication Date: 2026.03.04 LOREAL SA

AI summary

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a continuous oily phase comprising: i) at least one plant oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase, comprising: i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, and ii) at least one non-ionic polysaccharide Y, and iii) at least one polyol; c) at least one polyglycerolated non-ionic, preferably non- silicone, surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.