Anhydrous Powder Mascara Thermal Stability

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Solution Overview

Problem

Hot-applied mascaras deteriorate over time due to repeated heating-cooling cycles, leading to altered texture and stability, especially in compositions with ingredients sensitive to heat, resulting in reduced adhesion and coverage on keratin fibers.

Innovation Solution

An anhydrous powder mascara composition with a melting point between 35°C and 70°C, comprising two film-forming polymers and a wax, which can be heated just before application, eliminating the need for repeated heating-cooling cycles and allowing easy removal and modulation of application quantity.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of operation

If hot-applied mascara compositions are subjected to repeated heating-cooling cycles during regular use, then the mascara can be applied to eyelashes, but the composition deteriorates with altered texture and stability

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveapplication capabilityVSAvoidcomposition stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical state parameter of the mascara from liquid/pasty to powder form. This parameter change eliminates the need for repeated heating-cooling cycles during application, as the powder can be directly applied without thermal processing, thereby maintaining composition stability while preserving application capability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention adopts a single-use powder formulation that does not require repeated thermal cycling. Each application uses fresh powder that is applied and then discarded, eliminating the degradation issues associated with repeated heating-cooling cycles in reusable liquid mascaras

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

2Ease of operation

If water is evaporated from the mascara under heat during sampling, then the mascara can be applied, but the texture and stability are altered

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesampling capabilityVSAvoidtexture stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the formulation from water-based to anhydrous powder form. This parameter change eliminates water content that would otherwise evaporate under heat during sampling, preventing texture and stability alterations while maintaining the ability to sample and apply the product

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of operation

If the mascara is kept in liquid or pasty form for easy application, then the application process is simple, but the composition degrades under repeated heating

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveapplication simplicityVSAvoidthermal stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical state from liquid/pasty to powder form and eliminates water content. This parameter change provides thermal stability by removing degradable components while maintaining ease of operation through direct powder application without requiring heating equipment

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses a single-use powder formulation that eliminates the need for repeated heating cycles. Each application uses fresh powder that is applied directly or with minimal heating, preventing the thermal degradation that occurs in reusable liquid mascaras

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The solution provides a stable, long-lasting makeup with improved adhesion and coverage, allowing for a wider choice of ingredients and easier use, as the composition is not subjected to repeated thermal stress, maintaining cosmetic properties and extending product durability.

Implementation Method 1

The mascara of the invention has a melting point between 35°C and 70°C

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectMelting: Melting

Data Source

PatentEP2747738B1Mascara in powder form
Publication Date: 2017.12.06 LVMH RECH
  • EP2747738B1 patent drawingFigure 1~2

AI summary

The subject matter of the invention is a novel form of mascara in the powder form. It comprises at least one first polymer, the melting point of which is between 35°C and 70°C, and a second polymer with a melting point of between 80°C and 150°C. The first polymer may be chosen from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and polyalkylene glycols. The second polymer may be chosen from polybutenes, preferably with an average molecular weight of between 300 and 2500 g/mol, and polyvinylpyrrolidones, preferably with an average molecular weight of between 10 000 and 100 000 g/mol. The powdered mascara is taken in the desired amount and then heated before application or at the time of application to keratin fibres.