Hydrophobically-Modified Pullulan Emulsion Film Formation
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current cosmetic products for keratin materials lack long-lasting, comfortable, and resistant formulations that provide excellent staying power against mechanical friction, water, sweat, sebum, and oil, while maintaining comfort and ease of application.
Innovation Solution
The development of water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion compositions incorporating hydrophobically-modified pullulan compounds and aqueous phase film formers, along with thickening agents, colorants, and active agents, which form a stable film on keratin materials to enhance wear and resistance.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If conventional synthetic coating polymers with organic solvents are used, then long-lasting wear and resistance properties are achieved, but comfort and ease of application are compromised
Solution Approach 1:
The invention uses a composite film-forming system combining hydrophobically-modified pullulan (natural polysaccharide) with silicone compounds (dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone). This composite approach merges the biocompatibility and comfort of natural polymers with the durability and water resistance of silicone, achieving both long-lasting wear and comfortable application without organic solvents
Solution Approach 2:
The patent modifies pullulan by introducing hydrophobic groups (tert-butyl, phenyl) at controlled degrees of substitution (0.1-2.0 groups per anhydroglucose unit). This parameter change transforms the naturally hydrophilic pullulan into a water-resistant film former while maintaining its comfort properties, resolving the contradiction between durability and comfort
2Reliability
If unmodified silicone resin is used as film former, then wear resistance and water resistance are improved, but comfort level deteriorates
Solution Approach 1:
The invention applies local quality modification by selectively introducing hydrophobic groups only at specific positions on the pullulan molecule (C2, C3, C6 of anhydroglucose units) rather than uniformly modifying the entire structure. This localized modification provides water resistance at the molecular interface while preserving the bulk comfort properties of the polysaccharide chain
Solution Approach 2:
The hydrophobically-modified pullulan acts as an intermediary between the skin (keratin material) and the silicone compounds. It provides a biocompatible interface that enhances comfort while the associated silicone compounds provide the wear and water resistance, mediating between comfort and durability requirements
3Duration of action of stationary object
If semi-permanent makeup products are used, then duration of cosmetic effect is extended, but resistance to sebum and oil is insufficient
Solution Approach 1:
The invention exploits phase transition properties by using compounds that transition from liquid to solid state upon oxidation (silicone resins formed from dimethicone and phenyl trimethicone). This phase change creates a crosslinked network structure that provides both long duration and resistance to sebum/oil, as the solidified film repels oily substances while maintaining flexibility
Solution Approach 2:
The composite system combines oxidized silicone resins with hydrophobically-modified pullulan to create a film that resists sebum and oil. The silicone resin provides the oleophobic barrier while the modified pullulan maintains film integrity and adhesion, achieving both extended duration and oil resistance simultaneously
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The compositions offer improved long-lasting cosmetic effects with enhanced resistance to external forces and comfort, maintaining color and texture over an extended period without compromising skin health.
Implementation Method 1
form a stable film on keratin materials to enhance wear and resistance
Implementation Method 2
enhanced resistance to external forces such as mechanical friction, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum and/or oil
Data Source
AI summary
The invention relates to water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion compositions, preferably for skin, including at least one hydrophobically-modified pullulan compound and at least one aqueous phase film former, as well as to methods and kits including such emulsion compositions in container(s) or in application.