Retinol Cosmetic Emulsion Stabilization via Intermediary

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current cosmetic compositions struggle to provide stable retinol that effectively penetrates adult human skin without phase separation and maintains stability over time, especially when exposed to environmental conditions.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition comprising retinol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, sodium polyacrylate, and an oil phase, formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, which stabilizes retinol and enhances its penetration into the skin without the need for penetration enhancers.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If retinol is incorporated into cosmetic compositions, then skin penetration and anti-aging effects are improved, but stability and phase separation issues worsen

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveretinol stabilityVSAvoidphase separation
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses a specific emulsion system with polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate as an intermediary substance that mediates between retinol and the aqueous phase, preventing phase separation while maintaining retinol stability and skin penetration capability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite emulsion system combining multiple ingredients (polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) that work together to stabilize retinol while preventing phase separation, achieving both stability and penetration

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Stability of the object's composition

If retinol is stabilized in cosmetic compositions, then storage stability is improved, but penetration enhancement requirements worsen

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveretinol stabilityVSAvoidpenetration enhancement
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical and chemical parameters of the retinol delivery system by using a specific emulsion formulation with controlled droplet size and composition, which simultaneously stabilizes retinol during storage and enhances its penetration into skin without requiring additional penetration enhancers

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of operation

If penetration enhancers are added to improve retinol absorption, then skin penetration is improved, but formulation complexity and stability worsen

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin penetrationVSAvoidformulation complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent enables the retinol emulsion formulation to self-enhance penetration through its own structural design - the specific emulsion system with polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate creates a delivery mechanism that naturally facilitates skin penetration without requiring external penetration enhancers, thereby reducing formulation complexity

Inventive Principle:
Principle #25Self-service

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition retains at least 75% of retinol stability after 8 weeks at 45°C and achieves improved penetration of retinol into the epidermis and dermis, effectively addressing skin damage and aging signs without phase separation or the use of penetration enhancers.

Implementation Method 1

about 0.01 to about 1 wt. % of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAntioxidant activity: Oxidation

Implementation Method 2

wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion: Emulsion

Implementation Method 3

about 0.01 to about 3 wt. % of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; about 0.9 to about 7 wt. % of sodium polyacrylate

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectPhase separation prevention:

Data Source

PatentUS11865197B2Cosmetic compositions having stabilized retinol
Publication Date: 2024.01.09 LOREAL SA
  • US11865197B2 patent drawing

AI summary

A cosmetic composition including about 0.01 to about 3 wt. % of retinol; about 0.01 to about 1 wt. % of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; about 0.01 to about 3 wt. % of trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; about 0.5 to about 7 wt. % of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; about 0.9 to about 7 wt. % of sodium polyacrylate; about 0.5 to about 8 wt. % of an oil phase; and water, where all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Additionally, the cosmetic composition is typically formulated to form an oil-in-water emulsion. Methods for treating damaged skin with cosmetic compositions are also disclosed herein.