Rhamnolipid Esters for Long-Lasting Soft Skin Feel

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing formulations do not provide a long-lasting soft skin feeling after shaving, and they often leave the skin greasy and can have undesirable odors.

Innovation Solution

The use of Rhamnolipid esters, specifically mono- and di-Rhamnolipide esters, which are produced through a process involving fermentation and esterification with natural fat alcohols, are incorporated into cosmetic formulations to enhance skin feel and reduce greasiness.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Duration of action of moving object

If conventional surfactants are used in shaving formulations, then the skin feels smooth immediately after shaving, but the soft skin feeling does not last long and the skin becomes greasy

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveduration of soft skin feelingVSAvoidskin greasiness
Core Design Contradiction:
Duration of action of moving objectVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the chemical structure of rhamnolipids by esterifying the fatty acid moieties with various alcohols (methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl esters). This parameter change in molecular structure alters the surfactant properties, providing long-lasting soft skin feeling without greasiness. The esterified derivatives maintain surfactant functionality while reducing the greasy sensation on skin.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates composite surfactant molecules combining the rhamnose sugar head group with esterified fatty acid tails. This composite structure integrates the mildness and biodegradability of natural rhamnolipids with the improved skin feel and longevity of esterified derivatives, achieving both immediate smoothness and prolonged effect without greasiness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Productivity

If strong esterification conditions are used to produce rhamnolipid esters, then esterification efficiency increases, but the sugar structure of rhamnolipids is destroyed

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveesterification efficiencyVSAvoidsugar structure integrity
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs mild esterification conditions with specific pH ranges (6-8) and temperature control (0-25°C) to achieve effective esterification while preserving the labile sugar structure. By optimizing these parameters, the process maintains both productivity and structural integrity.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses gentle coupling reagents and catalysts as intermediaries to facilitate esterification without requiring harsh conditions. These intermediaries enable the reaction to proceed efficiently under mild conditions that protect the sugar moiety from degradation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

3Ease of manufacture

If conventional surfactants are used, then formulations have good cleaning ability, but they leave unwanted odors and reduce mildness

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveformulation mildnessVSAvoidunwanted skin odors
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The esterification of rhamnolipid fatty acid moieties changes the volatile profile and odor characteristics of the surfactant. The resulting esters have more pleasant, less unwanted odors while maintaining cleaning efficacy and enhancing mildness for cosmetic applications.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The Rhamnolipid esters significantly prolong the smooth, silky soft skin feeling after shaving, reduce skin greasiness, enhance the mildness of formulations, and improve skin elasticity, while also eliminating undesirable skin odors.

Implementation Method 1

Rhamnolipid esters as non-ionic surfactants for cosmetic use

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant: Surfactant

Implementation Method 2

Rhamnolipids are surfactants that can be produced by fermentation

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectFermentation: Fermentation

Implementation Method 3

Miao et al., Journal of Surfactants and Detergents, 17 (6), 2014; 1069-1080, describes the synthesis of di-rhamnolipid ethyl ester by esterification with ethanol

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEsterification: Chemical Bonding

Data Source

PatentEP3419985B1Rhamnolipid esters as non-ionic surfactants for cosmetic use
Publication Date: 2025.04.09 EVONIK OPERATIONS GMBH
  • EP3419985B1 patent drawing
  • EP3419985B1 patent drawing
  • EP3419985B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The invention relates to ester derivatives of rhamnolipids of formula (I) as nonionic surfactants, formulations containing same, and the use thereof.