Rhamnose Derivative Moisturizer Resolves Occlusion Irritation Trade-off

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current moisturizing agents for the skin, particularly for normal skin, often induce an occlusive effect that disrupts the natural functioning of the skin or cause irritation, and existing alternatives like glycerol acetals have lower moisturizing power and skin tolerance issues.

Innovation Solution

A novel composition based on rhamnose derivatives, specifically a mixture of polyol anhydrides and rhamnose residues, is developed, which provides effective skin moisturization without substantial occlusion, using a process involving heating, acetalization, and neutralization to create a cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Quantity of substance

If traditional moisturizing agents (occlusive agents, emollients, humectants) are used to moisturize the skin, then the degree of moisturization is improved, but the skin experiences occlusive effect that disrupts natural functioning or causes irritation

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewater content in Stratum corneumVSAvoidocclusive effect and skin irritation
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the chemical structure parameter by using rhamnose derivatives instead of traditional moisturizing agents. The specific compound structure (with rhamnose sugar units) provides a new mechanism for water binding that does not rely on occlusion, thereby maintaining moisturization without the harmful occlusive effect. This structural parameter change resolves the contradiction between effective moisturization and skin tolerance.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Object-affected harmful factors

If glycerol acetals are used as alternative moisturizing agents, then skin tolerance is improved, but moisturizing power is reduced

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin toleranceVSAvoidmoisturizing power
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The invention employs a composite molecular structure combining polyol components with rhamnose sugar units. This composite structure integrates the beneficial properties of both components: the polyol provides hygroscopicity for water binding, while the rhamnose derivative structure ensures high skin tolerance. The synergistic combination achieves both high moisturizing power and excellent skin tolerance, resolving the contradiction between these two properties.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The rhamnose derivative composition effectively enhances skin moisturization, maintaining water content and reducing transepidermal water loss without causing skin irritation, offering a better tolerance and moisturizing power compared to traditional humectants like glycerol.

Implementation Method 1

a step c) of acetalization by adding, with stirring, to the liquid medium obtained from step b), a catalytic amount of strong acid

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAcetalization: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 2

distilling off the water formed

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectDistillation: Distillation

Implementation Method 3

maintaining all the reaction mixture under partial vacuum

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectVacuum: Vacuum

Implementation Method 4

a step a) of heating, with gentle stirring, the polyol of formula (I) as defined previously, until it is brought to a higher temperature (T1) of at least 5° C. above its melting point

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHeating: Heating

Data Source

PatentUS11433014B2Polyol polyrhamnosides, process for the preparation thereof, and cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical composition comprising same
Publication Date: 2022.09.06 SOC DEXPLOITATION DE PROD POUR LES IND CHEM SEPPIC
  • US11433014B2 patent drawing
  • US11433014B2 patent drawing
  • US11433014B2 patent drawing

AI summary

Disclosed is a composition based on a polyol of formula: HO—CH2—(CHOH)m—CH2—OH and on alkyl polyrhamnosides of formula: HO—CH2—(CHOH)m—CH2—O-(Rham)x-H; process for preparing same, and cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition including same.