Self-Emulsifying Wax Composition for Stable Cosmetic Emulsions

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing oil-in-water emulsions and water gels often require ionic surfactants, acrylate polymers, or ethoxylated/propoxylated products, which can cause skin irritation and are not environmentally friendly, necessitating a need for stable emulsions and gels without these components.

Innovation Solution

A wax comprising a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, a glycerol fatty acid ester, and a fatty alcohol, which exhibits self-emulsifying properties and forms stable oil-in-water emulsions and water gels without additional emulsifiers, surfactants, or gelling agents, maintaining stability for extended periods at elevated temperatures.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If ionic surfactants are used to stabilize O/W emulsions, then emulsion stability is improved, but skin sensitization and irritation occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveemulsion stabilityVSAvoidskin irritation
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the chemical parameters of the emulsion system by replacing ionic surfactants with a specific combination of non-ionic ingredients: polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (emulsifier), glycerol fatty acid ester (co-emulsifier), and fatty alcohol (stabilizer). This parameter change maintains emulsion stability while eliminating skin irritation caused by ionic surfactants

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses a composite emulsion system composed of multiple non-ionic ingredients working synergistically. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, glycerol fatty acid ester, and fatty alcohol form a composite material that provides stable emulsion without the harmful effects of ionic surfactants

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If acrylate polymers are used to create water gels, then gel stability and sensorial properties are improved, but environmental friendliness deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvegel stabilityVSAvoidenvironmental impact
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention replaces synthetic acrylate polymers with natural-derived ingredients (polyglyceryl and glycerol esters from vegetable oils). This parameter change in ingredient origin and composition maintains gel stability while improving environmental compatibility and biodegradability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Reliability

If ethoxylated/propoxylated products are used as emulsifiers, then emulsion stability is improved, but environmental friendliness deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveemulsion stabilityVSAvoidenvironmental impact
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention replaces ethoxylated/propoxylated petroleum-derived emulsifiers with ester-based emulsifiers from vegetable oils. This parameter change in chemical composition and origin maintains emulsion stability while eliminating the environmental persistence and toxicity associated with ethoxylated/propoxylated products

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Reliability

If multiple additional substances are added to achieve stable emulsions, then emulsion stability is improved, but formulation complexity increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveemulsion stabilityVSAvoidformulation complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The invention merges the functions of emulsifier, co-emulsifier, and stabilizer into a single integrated wax composition. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, glycerol fatty acid ester, and fatty alcohol work together as a unified system, eliminating the need for multiple separate additives and simplifying the formulation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #5Merging (Combining)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The wax enables the creation of stable oil-in-water emulsions and water gels that are free from irritating components, providing long-lasting skin hydration and barrier function support without skin irritation, while being environmentally friendly.

Implementation Method 1

a wax having O/W self-emulsifying properties, due to synergic action between its principal components

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSelf-emulsifying: Emulsion

Implementation Method 2

water gel-forming properties

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectGel-forming: Gel

Data Source

PatentEP2925290B1Waxes having oil-in-water self-emulsifying and water gel-forming properties, compositions, uses and methods relating to same
Publication Date: 2018.05.09 INNOVACOS CORP
  • EP2925290B1 patent drawingFigure 1

AI summary

The present invention relates to waxes useful for cosmetic applications having stable oil-in-water emulsion-forming properties and, in some embodiments, stable gel-in-water-forming properties. In some embodiments, the waxes exhibit self-emulsifying properties, and can be produced without the addition of any other substances to achieve the emulsion (e.g., co-emulsifiers, hydrophilic polymers, polar surfactants, rheological modifiers, gelling agents). The waxes generally comprise: (a) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, (b) a glycerol fatty acid ester, and (c) a fatty alcohol. In particular embodiments, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be a polyglyceryl-2, -3, or -4 fatty acid ester, and the fatty chain lengths of (a)-(c) can range from C12 to C22. In more particular embodiments, the waxes can comprise polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate, and stearyl alcohol. Gels, oil-in-water emulsions, and other compositions produced from the waxes, as well as uses and methods relating thereto are also disclosed.