Odorless Shea Butter Ethyl Esters via Selective Deodorization
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Solution Overview
Problem
Cosmetic and personal care formulations face challenges in creating odorless ingredients due to the presence of volatile fragrant esters like ethyl cinnamate, which interfere with scent differentiation and hinder the production of non-fragranced products, especially in Asian markets where odorless formulations are preferred.
Innovation Solution
A method involving deodorization to reduce ethyl cinnamate levels to 1100 ppm or less in shea butter oil ethyl esters, while retaining triterpene esters and long chain fatty acid ethyl esters, using a composition comprising 81-97 wt.% short chain alcohol alkyl esters and 3-19 wt.% triterpene esters, ensuring the unsaponifiables remain intact.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Object-generated harmful factors
If deodorization is applied to remove volatile fragrant esters like ethyl cinnamate, then the odorless property is improved, but the unsaponifiable matter including triterpene esters may be reduced
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies parameter changes by controlling distillation temperature and pressure conditions to selectively remove volatile esters (boiling point 150-300°C) while preserving triterpene esters. The process maintains distillation temperature below 200°C and monitors pressure to prevent decomposition and loss of unsaponifiable matter, thus resolving the contradiction between odor removal and substance preservation
Solution Approach 2:
The patent extracts only the harmful volatile fragrant esters (ethyl cinnamate, ethyl ferulate) from the shea butter oil ethyl esters through controlled distillation, while leaving the beneficial triterpene esters and unsaponifiable matter intact in the residue. This selective extraction resolves the contradiction by removing only the odor-causing components
2Object-generated harmful factors
If conventional distillation is used to remove volatile esters, then the odor is reduced, but the triterpene esters are also lost
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the distillation parameters by limiting temperature to below 200°C and controlling pressure conditions, which allows selective removal of volatile esters with boiling points between 150-300°C while preserving the thermally sensitive triterpene esters. This parameter control ensures reliable retention of active ingredients
Solution Approach 2:
The patent replaces conventional high-temperature mechanical distillation with a controlled vacuum distillation system that uses reduced pressure to lower the boiling points of volatile esters, enabling their removal at lower temperatures that do not degrade triterpene esters. This substitution preserves the reliability of active ingredient content
3Ease of operation
If shea butter oil ethyl esters are produced by transesterification, then the emolliency and liquid appearance are improved, but the fruity scent from ethyl cinnamate formation interferes with formulation flexibility
Solution Approach 1:
The patent extracts the ethyl cinnamate component that causes fruity scent through controlled distillation, thereby removing the formulation constraint while preserving the beneficial emollient properties of the shea butter oil ethyl esters. This enables versatile application in both fragranced and non-fragranced products
Solution Approach 2:
The patent changes the composition parameters by reducing ethyl cinnamate content to below detection thresholds through controlled distillation, transforming the product from having a characteristic fruity scent to being odorless or having minimal scent, thus expanding formulation flexibility across different product categories
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The method effectively removes volatile esters, allowing for the creation of odorless or nearly odorless compositions suitable for various personal and cosmetic applications without reducing the content of anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory triterpene esters, meeting market demands for non-greasy, emollient-rich products.
Implementation Method 1
A method involving deodorization to reduce ethyl cinnamate levels to 1100 ppm or less in shea butter oil ethyl esters
Implementation Method 2
The inventors have found a window where the unsaponifiables, mainly triterpene esters, and long chain fatty acid ethyl esters remain in the distillation residue while the ethyl cinnamate is removed with the distillate
Data Source
AI summary
There are provided odorless shea based esters as an ingredient composition comprising: a) 81- 97 wt% of at least one short chain alcohol alkyl ester, at least partially from a natural source, b) 3-19 wt% of triterpene esters where at least one is a cinnamic triterpene ester, and c) 1100 ppm or less of at least one short chain alcohol cinnamic ester. There is further provided a method of manufacturing the composition comprising a deodorization step. An advantage is that an odourless or an almost odourless composition can be provided.