Shell-free Cosmetic Dispersion Stability via Lipophilic Gelling
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current cosmetic dispersions with macroscopic fatty phase drops in an aqueous phase lack stability and comfort due to the use of amodimethicone, which causes aggregation, adhesion, and spherical defects, leading to instability and unsatisfactory sensoriality.
Innovation Solution
Development of oil-in-water dispersions without amodimethicone, featuring a fatty phase with specific physicochemical properties such as hardness, adhesiveness, and cohesiveness, utilizing lipophilic gelling agents and oils to maintain kinetic stability and aesthetic appeal.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If amodimethicone is used to ensure kinetic stability of macroscopic drops, then stability is improved, but aggregation, adhesion, and spherical defects occur leading to worsened sensoriality and compatibility
Solution Approach 1:
The patent removes amodimethicone from the dispersion system entirely, extracting the problematic surfactant that causes aggregation and adhesion. The invention achieves stability without this harmful component by relying on the intrinsic properties of the fatty phase drops themselves.
Solution Approach 2:
The fatty phase drops are formulated to be self-stabilizing through their specific physicochemical properties (hardness, adhesiveness, cohesiveness). The system serves itself by maintaining stability through the natural characteristics of the dispersed phase rather than requiring external surfactants like amodimethicone.
2Illumination intensity
If macroscopic drops are used to provide aesthetic appearance, then visual appeal is improved, but aggregation and adhesion to packaging occur worsening stability
Solution Approach 1:
The patent modifies the physicochemical parameters of the fatty phase, specifically controlling hardness (2-14 N), adhesiveness (≥-2 N), and cohesiveness (≤40). These parameter changes enable macroscopic drops to maintain both their aesthetic visual appeal and stability by preventing aggregation and adhesion to packaging.
3Ease of operation
If shell formation is avoided for comfort on application, then sensoriality is improved, but kinetic stability may worsen
Solution Approach 1:
The fatty phase drops are formulated to be self-stabilizing through their specific physicochemical properties (hardness, adhesiveness, cohesiveness). The system serves itself by maintaining stability through the natural characteristics of the dispersed phase rather than requiring external surfactants like amodimethicone.
Data Source
AI summary
A dispersion comprises a dispersed phase comprising drops and a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in gel form, wherein the drops comprise a fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent, wherein: the fatty phase has a melting point between 50° C. and 100° C., preferably between 60° C. and 90° C., and, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, meets the following physicochemical criteria: a hardness (x) of between 2 and 14 N, preferably between 2.5 and 12 N, more preferably between 3 and 9 N, and most preferably between 4 and 6 N; and an adhesiveness (y) greater than or equal to −2 N, and better still, greater than or equal to −1 N, and in particular greater than or equal to −0.6 N; and the dispersion does not comprise amodimethicone.