Silicone-Free Water-in-Oil Emulsion for Stable Coverage and Light Feel

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions fail to provide a silicone-free, water-in-oil emulsion that offers good coverage properties, uniform application, and sensory benefits such as easy spreading, lightness, and non-greasy feel while maintaining environmental compatibility.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising a silicone-free, water-in-oil emulsion with a continuous oily phase containing C12-C22 dialkyl carbonate, a mixture of esters of C8-C10 carboxylic acid and coconut oil, volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and an aqueous phase dispersed in the oily phase, and an aqueous phase with polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethylene oxide, with the INCI name: PEG-30 Polyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethylene oxide, with the INCI name: PEG-30 Polyhydroxystearate; and at least one pulverulent colorant chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and pearlescent agents.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If water-in-oil emulsion is used to improve coverage and sensory properties, then coverage and comfort are improved, but stabilization becomes difficult

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecoverage propertiesVSAvoidemulsion stabilization
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the emulsion system by selecting specific oil phases (dialkyl carbonates, coconut oil esters, volatile hydrocarbon oils) and aqueous phases with controlled compositions, along with specific emulsifier concentrations and types, to achieve both good coverage properties and stable emulsion formation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses composite emulsion systems combining multiple oil phases (dialkyl carbonates, coconut oil esters, volatile hydrocarbon oils) with specific aqueous phases and emulsifiers to create a stable water-in-oil emulsion that maintains coverage properties while improving stabilization

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Object-affected harmful factors

If silicone-free formulation is adopted to improve environmental compatibility, then environmental protection is improved, but achieving good coverage and sensory properties becomes more difficult

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveenvironmental compatibilityVSAvoidcoverage properties
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by formulating a silicone-free system using alternative oil phases (dialkyl carbonates, coconut oil esters, volatile hydrocarbon oils) and aqueous phases with specific compositions to maintain coverage properties without silicones

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent employs volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that evaporate from the formulation, providing temporary coverage and sensory benefits without leaving persistent silicone-like residues, thus achieving environmental compatibility while maintaining functional performance

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

3Ease of operation

If water-in-oil emulsion is used to improve sensory properties (lightness, non-greasy feel), then comfort and ease of application are improved, but formulation complexity increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesensory propertiesVSAvoidformulation complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes formulation parameters by selecting specific oil phases (dialkyl carbonates, coconut oil esters, volatile hydrocarbon oils) and aqueous phases with controlled compositions, along with specific emulsifier concentrations, to achieve desired sensory properties while managing formulation complexity

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent segments the formulation into distinct phases (continuous oily phase with specific oil types, dispersed aqueous phase, emulsifier system, colorants) to simplify the development process and achieve target sensory properties systematically

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves good coverage properties, uniform application, and sensory benefits such as easy spreading, lightness, and non-greasy feel while maintaining environmental compatibility.

Implementation Method 1

a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (also called inverse emulsion)

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsification: Emulsion

Data Source

PatentUS20260000585A1Emulsion With a Dialkyl Carbonate, Coconut Oil Esters, a Volatile Hydrocarbon-Based Oil and a Polyethylene Glycol Dipolyhydroxystearate Containing 30 Mol of Ethylene Oxide
Publication Date: 2026.01.01 LOREAL SA
  • US20260000585A1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present application relates to a silicone-free, water-in-oil emulsion comprising: A) a continuous oily phase comprising: i) at least one C12-C22 dialkyl carbonate; and ii) at least one mixture of esters of C8-C10 carboxylic acid(s) and of fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil; and iii) at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil; and B) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; C) at least one emulsifying non-ionic surfactant which is a polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 mol of ethylene oxide, with the INCI name: PEG-30 Polyhydroxystearate; and D) at least one pulverulent colorant chosen from: —mineral pigments chosen from titanium dioxides and iron oxides, which are coated or uncoated, and mixtures thereof, —organic pigments, —pearlescent agents, and mixtures thereof. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application, to the keratin materials, of a composition as defined above.