Solid Cosmetic Composition Using Sucrose Polyesters for Migration Control

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Solution Overview

Problem

Lipsticks and other cosmetic products face issues with migration, affecting the sharpness of lip contours and eye make-up application, while structuring agents used to reduce migration often compromise gliding and gloss.

Innovation Solution

A solid cosmetic composition combining sucrose polyesters as lipophilic gelling agents with hydrogenated oils and non-volatile oils, along with a controlled wax content, to prevent migration without impacting gliding or gloss, ensuring a sharp, precise application and increased staying power.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If structuring agents of the wax and/or filler type are used to reduce migration, then migration is reduced, but the gliding of the composition onto the lips is negatively affected and a matt effect is produced

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvemigration resistanceVSAvoidgliding
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by using specific wax types (beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax) and controlling their proportions (0.1-5% each), along with specific filler types (silica, titanium dioxide) at controlled levels (0.1-5%), to achieve migration resistance while preserving gliding properties and gloss appearance

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite formulation combining multiple wax types, fillers, oils, and active ingredients in specific proportions to achieve a balanced composition that simultaneously provides migration resistance, maintains gliding, and preserves gloss without producing a matte effect

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If structuring agents of the wax and/or filler type are used to reduce migration, then migration is reduced, but a matt effect is produced that is not desirable for lip glosses

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvemigration resistanceVSAvoidgloss
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent carefully controls the type and amount of fillers used (silica, titanium dioxide at 0.1-5%) to provide migration resistance while selecting and dosing gloss-providing ingredients (oils, waxes) to maintain the desired glossy appearance and prevent matte effect

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of operation

If the composition is made to glide easily onto the lips, then gliding is improved, but migration increases affecting the sharpness of lip contours

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveglidingVSAvoidmigration resistance
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the balance between gliding agents (oils, butters) and structuring agents (waxes, fillers) by controlling their proportions, ensuring the composition glides smoothly during application while the structured network prevents subsequent migration that would blur lip contours

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The composition exhibits dynamic behavior where it remains structured and firm at rest to prevent migration, but becomes softer and more pliable during application to provide smooth gliding, then sets again after application to maintain sharp contours

Inventive Principle:
Principle #15Dynamics

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition effectively reduces migration, maintains a glossy appearance, and provides a creamy texture with enhanced staying power, ensuring a sharp lip contour and precise application without a matte effect.

Implementation Method 1

at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from sucrose polyesters

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectGelatinisation: Gel

Implementation Method 2

at least one fatty agent having a melting point between 25° C. and 55° C.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectMelting: Melting

Implementation Method 3

at least one wax, in a proportion of less than 9% by weight

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectStructuring:

Data Source

PatentUS20220133602A1Solid cosmetic composition that glides on and melts away on application
Publication Date: 2022.05.05 CHANEL PARFUMS BEAUTE SAS
  • US20220133602A1 patent drawing

AI summary

A solid cosmetic composition including at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from sucrose polyesters, at least one fatty substance having a melting point between 25° C. and 55° C., at least one oil, at least one colorant. Also, a stick including the solid cosmetic composition, a method for preparing the solid cosmetic composition and a method for making up the skin, mucous membranes or integuments, including the application of the solid cosmetic composition.