Solid Lipstick Emulsion with Lamellar Water Entrapment
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Solution Overview
Problem
Formulating a solid water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic composition that provides a long-lasting moisturizing effect while maintaining stability, as substantial amounts of water and humectants can destabilize the composition.
Innovation Solution
Incorporating a non-ionic alkyl phosphate, a base, humectant, and structuring agent, with the formation of lamellar phases, particularly alpha gels, to entrap water and humectants within the lipid bilayers, allowing for progressive release on the skin or lips, and using specific waxes and oils to maintain stability and flow characteristics.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Duration of action of moving object
If substantial amounts of water and humectants are introduced to achieve moisturizing effect, then the moisturizing effect is improved, but the stability of the cosmetic composition deteriorates
Solution Approach 1:
The patent embeds water and humectants within the lamellar structure formed by lipids, where water channels are nested between lipid bilayers. This nesting allows substantial amounts of water (up to 40% or more) and humectants to be incorporated while maintaining composition stability, as the lamellar structure protects the aqueous phase from destabilizing the oil-based cosmetic formulation.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent changes the physical state and organization of lipids to form lamellar phases with specific water channel structures. By controlling the arrangement and spacing of lipid bilayers, the system can accommodate varying amounts of water and humectants while maintaining structural integrity and stability throughout the product shelf life and during application.
2Duration of action of moving object
If substantial amounts of water and humectants are introduced to achieve moisturizing effect, then the moisturizing effect is improved, but the difficulty of formulation increases
Solution Approach 1:
The patent utilizes phase transition parameters of lipids to form lamellar structures at specific temperatures and compositions. By controlling processing temperature and lipid composition, the formulation process becomes more manageable, allowing water and humectants to be incorporated systematically into the lamellar structure during manufacturing.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates a composite structure combining hydrophobic lipid bilayers with hydrophilic water channels containing humectants. This composite lamellar phase integrates both oil-soluble and water-soluble components into a single stable structure, simplifying the formulation process compared to trying to stabilize separate oil and water phases.
3Duration of action of moving object
If water content is increased to provide moisturizing effect, then the moisturizing effect is improved, but the solid structure and flow properties deteriorate
Solution Approach 1:
The patent nests water channels within the lamellar lipid structure, allowing high water content while maintaining the solid stick form. The lamellar phases act as a scaffold that contains the aqueous phase, preventing it from disrupting the overall solid structure and flow properties of the cosmetic composition.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates local hydrophilic regions (water channels within lamellae) within an overall hydrophobic matrix. This local organization of water allows moisturizing functionality without compromising the global solid structure and rheological properties of the cosmetic product.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition achieves a long-lasting moisturizing effect, maintaining stability and flow properties, as demonstrated by the presence of alpha gels and characteristic XRD peaks, enhancing skin or lip hydration for up to 6 hours post-application.
Implementation Method 1
The Applicant has found that substantial amounts of water and humectants can be introduced in solid water-in-oil emulsions by forming lamellar phases, preferably alpha gels, therein
Implementation Method 2
cosmetic composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion
Implementation Method 3
Waxes are generally introduced in stick type cosmetics so as to obtain a product that can be cast in the desired form when heated and that solidifies at room temperature
Implementation Method 4
a product that can be cast in the desired form when heated and that solidifies at room temperature
Data Source
AI summary
Disclosed is a cosmetic composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion, for example a lipstick, a lip balm, a foundation or a concealer. It also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for or making up the lips or the skin, including the topical application to the lips or the skin of this composition.