Solid W/O Cosmetic Composition Using Dual Gelling Agents

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current solid cosmetics struggle with providing a long-term moisturizing and cooling effect while maintaining a soft, stable, and smooth texture that does not break or sweat at high temperatures.

Innovation Solution

A stable, solid water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion composition is developed, incorporating a gellifying system comprising hydrophobic and hydrophilic gelling agents, along with a surfactant system to achieve a smooth, creamy texture and long-lasting moisturizing and cooling effects.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Stability of the object's composition

If high level of solidifying waxes and powders are used to create solid structure, then the cosmetic maintains solid form, but the product becomes stiff and tacky with drying effect on skin

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesolid structureVSAvoiddrying effect and stiffness
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical state parameters by incorporating water (9-40% wt) into the solid cosmetic matrix, transforming it from an anhydrous stiff structure to a hydrated soft solid. The water content parameter is specifically controlled to achieve the desired balance between solid form maintenance and softness, eliminating the drying effect while preserving structural integrity.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite material system combining water, humectants (glycerin, propylene glycol), solidifying agents (waxes, polymers), and pigments. This composite structure allows the water to be trapped within the matrix formed by waxes and polymers, providing both moisturizing benefits and solid form stability simultaneously.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Object-affected harmful factors

If high level of water and humectants are used to improve moisturizing effect, then the cosmetic provides long lasting moisturizing, but the product becomes unstable (breaks over time, sweats water, develops odor)

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvemoisturizing effectVSAvoidstability
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses waxes (beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax) and polymers (polyethylene, polyisobutylene) to create a flexible matrix or shell structure that encapsulates and holds water. This matrix prevents water evaporation and maintains structural integrity, allowing the cosmetic to remain stable while providing moisturizing benefits.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #30Flexible shells and thin films

Solution Approach 2:

The patent controls the water content parameter within a specific range (9-40% wt) and adjusts the ratio of solidifying agents to water to maintain stability. The humectant concentration is also optimized to bind water molecules, preventing free water movement that would cause sweating or breaking of the cosmetic structure.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of manufacture

If water based products contain dyes for color appearance, then the cosmetic provides color coverage, but the dyes cause long term staining of skin that is hard to remove

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecolor appearanceVSAvoidskin staining
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical nature of colorants from water-soluble dyes to oil-soluble or pigment-based colorants that do not bind strongly to skin proteins. The pigment concentration and type are selected to provide adequate color coverage without causing permanent staining, and the oil-based colorant system allows for easier removal without long-term skin discoloration.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Reliability

If small amounts of water are used in water bases sticks, then the product maintains stability, but the moisturizing and cooling effect is insufficient

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovestabilityVSAvoidmoisturizing effect
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent increases the water content parameter to an optimal range (9-40% wt) that provides sufficient moisturizing and cooling effects while maintaining stability through the balanced formulation of solidifying agents, humectants, and emulsifiers. This represents a significant increase from traditional water base sticks that contain only trace water.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves a smooth, creamy, and non-tacky texture, providing a long-lasting, refreshing, and cooling sensation while maintaining stability and preventing water evaporation or unpleasant odors.

Implementation Method 1

a stable, solid water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion composition

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion: Emulsion

Implementation Method 2

comprising at least one gellifying system

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectGel: Gel

Implementation Method 3

the water entrapped within hydrophilic gellant provides a long lasting moisturizing effect

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydrogel: Hydrogel

Implementation Method 4

the composition contains at least one surfactant system comprising at least one nonionic surfactant

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant: Surfactant

Data Source

PatentUS12220469B2Solid W/O cosmetic composition
Publication Date: 2025.02.11 SHISEIDO CO LTD

AI summary

A solid W/O stable composition comprising a gellifying system comprising at least one hydrophobic gelling agent and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant having HLB value of 14 or less. Further there is disclosed a method of treatment keratinous surface with the inventive composition.