Sorbitan Carboxylic Acid Esters in Polyether-Free Formulations

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current cosmetic formulations face challenges in achieving good care performance and foam properties while being polyether-free, as they often require additional viscosity regulators and moisturizers, and have reduced foaming capabilities due to the absence of polyethers and the limitations of conventional thickeners like NaCl and highly ethoxylated derivatives.

Innovation Solution

The use of sorbitancarboxylic acid esters derived from carboxylic acids with 6 to 10 carbon atoms, having a hydroxyl number greater than 350, as viscosity regulators, care agents, and foam boosters in polyether-free surfactant formulations, which provide effective thickening and moisturizing properties without the need for additional components.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Object-affected harmful factors

If polyether-free formulations are used, then the formulations avoid polyether-containing compounds, but the foam properties and viscosity are significantly reduced

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepolyether-containing compoundsVSAvoidfoam properties
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSProductivity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters by using sorbitan carboxylic acid esters with specific molecular weight ranges (150-500 g/mol) and controlled esterification degrees (1.2-2 moles of carboxylic acid per mole of sorbitol). These parameter adjustments enable the formulation to achieve both polyether-free status and maintained foam properties through optimized molecular characteristics of the surfactant system

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite surfactant system combining sorbitan carboxylic acid esters with specific carboxylic acids (6-10 carbon atoms) and further surfactants. This composite approach allows the formulation to compensate for the absence of polyethers while maintaining or improving foam properties through synergistic interactions between different surfactant components

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Shape

If conventional thickeners like NaCl or highly ethoxylated derivatives are used, then viscosity is increased, but the formulations require additional components and processing complexity

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveviscosityVSAvoidformulation complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The sorbitan carboxylic acid esters perform multiple functions simultaneously: they act as surfactants for cleansing, provide viscosity regulation through their molecular structure, and contribute to foam stabilization. This multi-functionality eliminates the need for separate thickening agents, reducing formulation complexity while maintaining desired viscosity characteristics

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent merges the functions of surfactant and thickener into a single ingredient system by using sorbitan carboxylic acid esters with controlled molecular weights and esterification degrees. This consolidation combines what were traditionally separate functional components into one integrated system, simplifying the overall formulation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #5Merging (Combining)

3Reliability

If refatting agents are added to compensate for washed off skin lipids, then skin care performance is improved, but the formulations require additional components

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin care performanceVSAvoidformulation complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The sorbitan carboxylic acid esters provide dual functionality by acting as both effective surfactants for lipid removal and as refatting agents that compensate for washed-off skin lipids. The esterified sorbitan structure provides emollient properties while maintaining surfactant activity, eliminating the need for separate refatting agent additions

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

Sorbitancarboxylic acid esters enhance the care performance and foam quality of cosmetic formulations, reducing the requirement for additional thickeners and moisturizers, and improve skin feel and softness, while maintaining effective foaming properties in both polyether-containing and polyether-free systems.

Implementation Method 1

The use of sorbitancarboxylic acid esters derived from carboxylic acids with 6 to 10 carbon atoms, having a hydroxyl number greater than 350, as viscosity regulators, care agents, and foam boosters in polyether-free surfactant formulations, which provide effective thickening and moisturizing properties

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectViscosity regulation:

Implementation Method 2

For the purposes of the present invention, a solubilizer or solubilizer is a substance that is able to bring water-insoluble compounds into solution as clearly as possible in aqueous systems. According to the generally accepted idea, aggregates such as micelles are formed during this process, in whose structures the hydrophobic substances are integrated.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectMicelle formation:

Implementation Method 3

The use of sorbitancarboxylic acid esters derived from carboxylic acids with 6 to 10 carbon atoms, having a hydroxyl number greater than 350, as viscosity regulators, care agents, and foam boosters in polyether-free surfactant formulations

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectFoam formation: Foam

Implementation Method 4

It is assumed that the re-greasing process occurs when the formulation is rinsed after the actual wash. During the washing process with water, the existing solution is diluted until the critical micelle formation concentration is undershot and the lipophilic components solubilized in the surfactant aggregates become insoluble. With the release of the micelle components (the lipophilic refatting agents, the surfactants and solubilizers), the refatting agents become insoluble again. These lipophilic substances (both skin's own lipids and emollients/cosmetic oils) precipitate and absorb into the skin.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAbsorption: Absorption (physical)

Data Source

PatentEP2410979B1Formulations containing sorbitan carboxylic acid ester
Publication Date: 2016.12.21 EVONIK OPERATIONS GMBH
  • EP2410979B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The invention relates to formulations for the washing and care of human or animal body parts, said formulations containing sorbitan carboxylic acid esters and characterised in that the carboxylic acid part of the sorbitain carboxylic acid ester is derived from a carboxylic acid containing between 6 and 10 carbon atoms and the sorbitan carboxylic acid esters have a hydroxyl count (OH count) of higher than 350. The invention also relates to the use of sorbitan carboxylic acid ester in washing or care formulations.