Stable Skin Care Emulsion Using Polyglyceryl Surfactants

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Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional skin care and sunscreen compositions face stability challenges when incorporating natural oils and sunscreen actives, often resulting in discoloration or precipitation, especially due to the sensitivity of traditional emulsions to electrolytes, leading to undesirable greasy textures.

Innovation Solution

A stable skin care composition incorporating polyglyceryl fatty acid ester surfactants with a hydrophile-lipophile balance of 9 to 12, combined with cosmetically acceptable oils and sunscreen actives, which forms a homogeneous emulsion that is tactilely pleasing and stable, allowing for effective UV protection.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If natural oils and sunscreen actives are incorporated into conventional emulsions, then the composition provides moisturizing benefits and UV protection, but the composition becomes unstable and develops greasy texture

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovestabilityVSAvoidgreasy texture
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the emulsion parameters by using polyglyceryl fatty acid ester surfactants with specific HLB values (9-12) and controlling the water content at 20-60%, which fundamentally alters the emulsion's stability characteristics and eliminates greasy texture while maintaining moisturizing benefits

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite emulsion system combining polyglyceryl fatty acid ester surfactants with natural oils and sunscreen actives, where the surfactant composition is specifically designed to stabilize the mixture and prevent the harmful greasy texture that would otherwise result

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Ease of manufacture

If traditional emulsions are used to carry sunscreen actives, then the composition can be formulated, but the emulsion becomes sensitive to electrolytes and precipitates occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveformulation capabilityVSAvoidresistance to precipitation
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the emulsion's chemical parameters by selecting polyglyceryl fatty acid ester surfactants with HLB values of 9-12, which creates an emulsion system that is inherently resistant to electrolyte-induced precipitation while maintaining ease of formulation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant acts as an intermediary that mediates between the sunscreen actives and the aqueous phase, preventing direct interaction that would cause precipitation while maintaining formulation simplicity

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

3Reliability

If liposoluble UV filters are incorporated into conventional emulsions, then UV protection is provided, but the emulsion stability is compromised due to polymer sensitivity

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveUV protectionVSAvoidemulsion homogeneity
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the surfactant parameters by using polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB values of 9-12, which creates an emulsion system that can stably carry liposoluble UV filters without the polymer sensitivity issues that cause homogeneity problems in conventional emulsions

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves exceptional stability and skin absorption while carrying significant sunscreen actives, maintaining stability for extended periods and providing quick absorption without a greasy texture, as demonstrated by its ability to remain homogeneous and effective for over 8 weeks.

Implementation Method 1

a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant having a hydrophile-lipophile balance value of from about 9 to about 12

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant: Surfactant

Implementation Method 2

quick absorption without a greasy texture

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAbsorption: Absorption (physical)

Data Source

PatentUS9931294B2Stable skin care composition having cosmetically acceptable oils
Publication Date: 2018.04.03 LOREAL SA

AI summary

A skin care composition including a cosmetically acceptable oil, from about 0.25% to about 7.0%, based upon the weight of the composition, of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant having an hydrophile-lipophile balance value of from about 9 to about 12, and a sunscreen active. The composition is stable.