Star-Shaped Diamond Cutting for Thin Watch Dials

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Solution Overview

Problem

High-end watches with gemstone dials face challenges in incorporating original shapes like diamonds due to thickness limitations, which affect brilliance and aesthetic appeal without breaking the gemstone or hindering hand movements.

Innovation Solution

A star-shaped diamond is produced with a specific cut and setting method that maintains brilliance and aesthetic appeal while being compatible with dial thickness, using a method involving faceting and laser cutting, and a virtually invisible securing mechanism within the dial.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Shape

If a gemstone of original shape (e.g., star shape) is produced, then aesthetic appearance and brilliance are enhanced, but the thickness limitation of the dial is violated and the gemstone may break during cutting

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvegemstone shapeVSAvoidgemstone integrity
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The gemstone is divided into multiple facets (crown facets, pavilion facets, girdle facets) that are cut in a specific sequence. The cutting process is segmented into stages: first cutting the crown and girdle, then the pavilion, with intermediate annealing steps to prevent breaking while maintaining the original star shape.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

The crown and girdle are cut before the pavilion, and intermediate annealing is performed before final pavilion cutting. This preliminary action strengthens the gemstone structure during the cutting process, preventing breakage while achieving the desired original shape.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

2Length of stationary object

If the gemstone thickness is reduced to fit the dial, then the dial thickness limitation is satisfied, but the brilliance and aesthetic appearance of the gemstone deteriorate

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedial thicknessVSAvoidgemstone brilliance
Core Design Contradiction:
Length of stationary objectVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

Different regions of the gemstone are given different qualities: the crown facets are designed to maximize light entry and reflection, the pavilion facets are optimized for light return, and the girdle provides structural support. This local optimization of facet angles and positions maintains brilliance even in thin gemstones that fit dial thickness constraints.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

Solution Approach 2:

The facet angles and positions are precisely adjusted to optimize light interaction. By changing the parameters of facet orientation and geometry, the gemstone achieves maximum brilliance and fire effects within the constrained thickness of the dial assembly.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Length of stationary object

If conventional round gemstones are used, then the dial thickness constraint is satisfied, but aesthetic appeal and originality are reduced

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedial thicknessVSAvoidgemstone shape
Core Design Contradiction:
Length of stationary objectVSShape

Solution Approach 1:

The gemstone transitions from a conventional symmetric round shape to an asymmetric star shape with multiple facets arranged in specific patterns. The crown, pavilion, and girdle all feature asymmetric facet arrangements that create the star effect, providing originality and aesthetic appeal while maintaining compatibility with dial thickness through optimized facet geometry.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #4Asymmetry

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The star-shaped diamond maintains brilliance and aesthetic appeal while being securely set in the dial without breaking, ensuring compatibility with the dial's thickness and allowing for smooth hand movement, enhancing the watch's visual appeal.

Implementation Method 1

the edges at the junction between lateral faces i are subsequently laser-cut to form the ends of each of the five arms

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectLaser ablation: Laser Ablation

Data Source

PatentUS11000102B2Gemstone and method for producing the same
Publication Date: 2021.05.11 OMEGA SA
  • US11000102B2 patent drawing
  • US11000102B2 patent drawing
  • US11000102B2 patent drawing

AI summary

A method for producing a gemstone, in particular a diamond, in the shape of a star with several arms, the method including taking a basic, brilliant cut gemstone, the gemstone including a basic crown, a basic pavilion and a basic girdle joining the basic crown and the basic pavilion and defining a plane, cutting a plurality of facets in the respectively basic crown, pavilion and girdle, to obtain a transformed gemstone delimited by a periphery, laser cutting the periphery of the transformed gemstone to produce the star shape.