Structured Aqueous Polymeric Adhesive Phase for Long-Wearing Cosmetics
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing cosmetic compositions fail to maintain a long-lasting, transfer-resistant, and comfortable appearance on mammalian keratinous tissues such as skin, lips, and hair due to issues with film mobility, dryness, brittleness, and irritation caused by previous formulations that rely on volatile ingredients, high melting point waxes, or water-soluble film-formers.
Innovation Solution
A cosmetic composition combining a structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase with an aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles and a structuring agent, which is compatible with a fatty phase to create a long-wearing, viscoelastic film that resists migration and deformation, without the need for emulsifying agents, thus providing improved thermal tolerance and skin compatibility.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Ease of operation
If volatile fatty phase ingredients (silicones or hydrocarbons) are used to provide initial spreadability, then the product achieves good application properties, but the film becomes too mobile and transfers easily after evaporation
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the physical state parameters of the film-forming components by using water-soluble polymers that form flexible films upon water evaporation, rather than volatile silicones or hydrocarbons. This parameter change allows the film to maintain mobility during application but resist transfer afterward, resolving the contradiction between initial spreadability and transfer resistance.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates a composite film system combining water-soluble polymer particles with fatty phase ingredients. This composite approach leverages the film-forming capabilities of both components, achieving both good application properties and transfer resistance that neither ingredient could provide alone.
2Reliability
If hydrophobic resins and high melting point waxes are used to deposit a rigid film, then water-resistance and permanence are improved, but the film becomes too dry and matte in appearance
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical composition parameters of the film-forming system by incorporating water-soluble polymers that form flexible, glossy films. This replaces the traditional hydrophobic resin and wax system, maintaining water-resistance while eliminating the dry, matte appearance associated with those ingredients.
3Ease of operation
If water-soluble film-formers are used to create a flexible film, then comfort and flexibility are improved, but the film lacks water-resistance and is easily rubbed off
Solution Approach 1:
The patent creates a composite film system combining water-soluble polymer particles with fatty phase ingredients. This composite approach leverages the film-forming capabilities of both components, achieving both good application properties and transfer resistance that neither ingredient could provide alone.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent modifies the physical and chemical parameters of the film by controlling the particle size, concentration, and type of water-soluble polymer used. These parameter adjustments optimize both flexibility and water-resistance, resolving the contradiction between comfort and durability.
4Stability of the object's composition
If high levels of emulsifying agents are used to stabilize the aqueous dispersion, then compatibility is improved, but skin irritation and sensitization increase
Solution Approach 1:
The patent extracts and eliminates the need for emulsifying agents from the formulation by using water-soluble polymer particles that are inherently compatible with the fatty phase. This removal of the harmful component (emulsifying agents) while maintaining the necessary function (compatibility) resolves the contradiction between stability and skin irritation.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition achieves a durable, flexible, and water-resistant film that maintains appearance and comfort over time, resisting physical and chemical insults, while avoiding skin irritation and film instability at various temperatures.
Implementation Method 1
at least one aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles
Implementation Method 2
structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase
Implementation Method 3
at least one structuring agent in an amount effective to viscoelastically thicken, but not solidify, the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase
Implementation Method 4
this fatty phase is primarily employed to deliver desirable features such as emolliency, spreadability, gloss, conditioning, and/or protective properties
Data Source
AI summary
A cosmetic composition comprising: (A) at least one structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase comprising: i) at least one aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles; and ii) at least one structuring agent in an amount effective to viscoelastically thicken, but not solidify, the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase; and (B) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one lipidic component wherein (A) is compatible when combined with (B) to form a long-wearing cosmetic composition such that the viscosity of the long-wearing cosmetic composition is greater than the viscosity of (B) alone and the tan δ value of the long-wearing cosmetic composition is less than the tan δ value of (B) alone.