Translucent Water-in-Oil Emulsion Using Amphiphilic Compounds
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current cosmetic compositions, particularly water-in-oil emulsions, face challenges in achieving transparency without using high-energy processing, refractive index matching, or leaving undesirable residues, which limits their aesthetic appeal and robustness.
Innovation Solution
A cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase with amphiphilic compounds like urea, sodium PCA, and hydroxyethyl urea, and an oil phase with a water-in-oil emulsifier, formulated as a water-in-oil emulsion, is created using a cold process, avoiding the need for refractive index matching and high-energy processing, resulting in a transparent or translucent product.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Illumination intensity
If refractive index matching is used to create translucent emulsion, then transparency is improved, but large amount of adjusters such as glycols or fluorocarbons are required resulting in undesirable tacky residue
Solution Approach 1:
The invention changes the refractive index parameter of the emulsion system by selecting specific oil and water phases with complementary refractive indices, eliminating the need for refractive index adjusters. The oil phase has a refractive index of 1.40-1.60 and the water phase has a refractive index of 1.30-1.50, creating a translucent emulsion without tacky residues from glycols or fluorocarbons.
2Illumination intensity
If nanoemulsion is created by reducing emulsion droplet size below 100 nm, then transparency is improved, but high energy and high temperatures are required resulting in high processing cost
Solution Approach 1:
The invention changes the droplet size parameter from ultrafine nanoemulsion (<100 nm) to microemulsion range (100-1000 nm), which still provides good transparency but can be achieved through conventional mixing and homogenization processes without requiring high-energy processing or temperatures exceeding 75°C.
3Ease of operation
If W/O emulsion is stabilized with silicone elastomeric polymers, then cosmetic feel is improved, but formula robustness and aesthetics are limited
Solution Approach 1:
The invention uses a composite emulsification system combining a nonionic surfactant (such as polysorbate or polyethylene glycol ester) with a silicone oil (such as dimethicone). This composite approach provides both the cosmetic feel from the silicone and the formula robustness from the surfactant, overcoming the limitations of using silicone elastomeric polymers alone.
4Ease of operation
If conventional O/W or W/O emulsion is used, then cosmetic comfort is improved, but transparency is compromised due to light scattering
Solution Approach 1:
The invention changes the droplet size parameter to the microemulsion range (100-1000 nm) and optimizes the refractive index match between phases, which reduces light scattering while maintaining the emulsion structure. This provides both cosmetic comfort from the emulsion format and transparency from the optimized optical parameters.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition achieves high transparency (>83%) at ambient temperature and low cost, maintaining a desirable cosmetic feel without the drawbacks of traditional methods, such as nanoemulsions, and allows for the addition of active compounds to enhance transparency.
Implementation Method 1
an oil phase including at least one water-in-Oil emulsifier
Implementation Method 2
Emulsions typically appear milky white due to the difference of refractive index between the internal phase and the external phase, leading to scattering of visible light
Data Source
AI summary
A transparent or translucent cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is provided. The composition includes an aqueous phase at a concentration, by weight, of about 50%-90%, based upon weight of the composition. The aqueous phase includes at least one amphiphilic compound selected from the group consisting of urea, sodium 5-oxo-2-pyrrolidinecarboxylate (sodium PCA), hydroxyethyl urea, nicotinamide, sodium citrate, ascorbic acid, or combinations thereof. The at least one amphiphilic compound is at a concentration, by weight, of about 2% to about 50%, based upon weight of the composition. The composition includes an oil phase comprising at least one water-in-oil emulsifier at a concentration, by weight, of about 1%-25%, based upon weight of the composition. The water-in-oil emulsion is a transparent or translucent composition.

