Translucent Water-in-Oil Emulsion Using Amphiphilic Compounds

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current cosmetic compositions, particularly water-in-oil emulsions, face challenges in achieving transparency without using high-energy processing, refractive index matching, or leaving undesirable residues, which limits their aesthetic appeal and robustness.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase with amphiphilic compounds like urea, sodium PCA, and hydroxyethyl urea, and an oil phase with a water-in-oil emulsifier, formulated as a water-in-oil emulsion, is created using a cold process, avoiding the need for refractive index matching and high-energy processing, resulting in a transparent or translucent product.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Illumination intensity

If refractive index matching is used to create translucent emulsion, then transparency is improved, but large amount of adjusters such as glycols or fluorocarbons are required resulting in undesirable tacky residue

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovetransparencyVSAvoidtacky residue
Core Design Contradiction:
Illumination intensityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the refractive index parameter of the emulsion system by selecting specific oil and water phases with complementary refractive indices, eliminating the need for refractive index adjusters. The oil phase has a refractive index of 1.40-1.60 and the water phase has a refractive index of 1.30-1.50, creating a translucent emulsion without tacky residues from glycols or fluorocarbons.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Illumination intensity

If nanoemulsion is created by reducing emulsion droplet size below 100 nm, then transparency is improved, but high energy and high temperatures are required resulting in high processing cost

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovetransparencyVSAvoidprocessing energy
Core Design Contradiction:
Illumination intensityVSUse of energy by moving object

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the droplet size parameter from ultrafine nanoemulsion (<100 nm) to microemulsion range (100-1000 nm), which still provides good transparency but can be achieved through conventional mixing and homogenization processes without requiring high-energy processing or temperatures exceeding 75°C.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of operation

If W/O emulsion is stabilized with silicone elastomeric polymers, then cosmetic feel is improved, but formula robustness and aesthetics are limited

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic feelVSAvoidformula robustness
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The invention uses a composite emulsification system combining a nonionic surfactant (such as polysorbate or polyethylene glycol ester) with a silicone oil (such as dimethicone). This composite approach provides both the cosmetic feel from the silicone and the formula robustness from the surfactant, overcoming the limitations of using silicone elastomeric polymers alone.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

4Ease of operation

If conventional O/W or W/O emulsion is used, then cosmetic comfort is improved, but transparency is compromised due to light scattering

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic comfortVSAvoidtransparency
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the droplet size parameter to the microemulsion range (100-1000 nm) and optimizes the refractive index match between phases, which reduces light scattering while maintaining the emulsion structure. This provides both cosmetic comfort from the emulsion format and transparency from the optimized optical parameters.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves high transparency (>83%) at ambient temperature and low cost, maintaining a desirable cosmetic feel without the drawbacks of traditional methods, such as nanoemulsions, and allows for the addition of active compounds to enhance transparency.

Implementation Method 1

an oil phase including at least one water-in-Oil emulsifier

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurface tension reduction: Surfactant

Implementation Method 2

Emulsions typically appear milky white due to the difference of refractive index between the internal phase and the external phase, leading to scattering of visible light

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectLight scattering: Scattering

Data Source

PatentUS9545373B2Translucent cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion
Publication Date: 2017.01.17 LOREAL SA
  • US9545373B2 patent drawing
  • US9545373B2 patent drawing

AI summary

A transparent or translucent cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is provided. The composition includes an aqueous phase at a concentration, by weight, of about 50%-90%, based upon weight of the composition. The aqueous phase includes at least one amphiphilic compound selected from the group consisting of urea, sodium 5-oxo-2-pyrrolidinecarboxylate (sodium PCA), hydroxyethyl urea, nicotinamide, sodium citrate, ascorbic acid, or combinations thereof. The at least one amphiphilic compound is at a concentration, by weight, of about 2% to about 50%, based upon weight of the composition. The composition includes an oil phase comprising at least one water-in-oil emulsifier at a concentration, by weight, of about 1%-25%, based upon weight of the composition. The water-in-oil emulsion is a transparent or translucent composition.