Two-Phase Cosmetic Composition Using Encapsulating Agent

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing two-phase cosmetic compositions face challenges in controlling the phase shift time, requiring precise adjustment of emulsifying and demixing agents, which is cumbersome, and lack a transparent and aesthetic visual appearance, especially when containing high active principles concentrations.

Innovation Solution

Incorporating an encapsulating agent, such as dextrins, into the aqueous phase to delay and control the phase shift of the oily phase, allowing a homogeneous dispersion for a sufficient time without the need for emulsifying and demixing agents, maintaining transparency and aesthetic appeal.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Loss of time

If emulsifying and demixing agents are used to control phase separation, then phase separation time can be controlled, but the composition requires precise adjustment of multiple agents which is cumbersome and complex

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvephase separation time controlVSAvoidcomposition complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
Loss of timeVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The invention extracts and eliminates the need for emulsifying and demixing agents from the composition. Instead of using multiple chemical agents, the patent utilizes the natural properties of the active ingredient itself to control phase separation timing, thereby simplifying the composition while maintaining control over phase separation time.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The active ingredient performs a dual function: it provides the intended cosmetic or dermatological effect while simultaneously controlling the phase separation behavior of the composition. This self-service approach eliminates the need for separate emulsifying and demixing agents, reducing composition complexity.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #25Self-service

2Quantity of substance

If high concentrations of active ingredients are incorporated, then effectiveness is maximized, but transparency and aesthetic appearance are compromised

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveactive ingredient concentrationVSAvoidtransparency
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the physical state or form of the active ingredient, transforming it into a microencapsulated form. This parameter change allows high concentrations of active ingredients to be incorporated while maintaining composition transparency, as the microencapsulated form has different optical properties than bulk active ingredient.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The active ingredient is nested within microcapsules, creating a hierarchical structure where the active ingredient is contained within a carrier system. This nesting approach allows high concentrations of active ingredient to be incorporated without compromising the transparent aesthetic appearance of the overall composition.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #7Nested doll (Nesting)

3Duration of action of moving object

If the composition remains dispersed for extended use time, then practical application is improved, but aesthetic visual appearance is lost due to phase mixing

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedispersion stability timeVSAvoidvisual appearance
Core Design Contradiction:
Duration of action of moving objectVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

The composition exhibits periodic phase behavior: it remains dispersed during application (use phase) and then automatically separates into distinct phases after use (aesthetic phase). This periodic action between dispersed and separated states allows the composition to meet both practical application needs and aesthetic appearance requirements at different times.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #19Periodic action

Solution Approach 2:

The microencapsulated active ingredient acts as an intermediary that mediates between the aqueous and oily phases, controlling the timing and rate of phase separation. This intermediary function allows extended dispersion stability during use while ensuring timely aesthetic phase separation afterward.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

4Object-affected harmful factors

If alcohol content is reduced or eliminated, then skin irritation is minimized, but solubilization and stability of active ingredients are compromised

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin irritationVSAvoidactive ingredient stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The microcapsule carrier system acts as an intermediary that solubilizes and stabilizes active ingredients without requiring alcohol. This intermediary structure provides the necessary solubilization and stability functions that were previously achieved through alcohol, thereby reducing skin irritation while maintaining ingredient reliability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses a composite material system consisting of the microcapsule shell and core, which together provide solubilization and stabilization functions. This composite approach replaces the need for alcohol as a solubilizing agent, maintaining active ingredient stability while minimizing skin irritation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition remains in a stable, homogeneous dispersion for at least thirty seconds and rapidly returns to its initial state within four minutes, ensuring effective use and visual appeal, even with high active principle concentrations and minimal alcohol content.

Implementation Method 1

the incorporation into the aqueous phase of an encapsulating agent of the oily phase, makes it possible to slow down the phase separation of the oily phase and the aqueous phase sufficiently

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEncapsulation:

Implementation Method 2

the phase separation time—that is, the time it takes for the composition, after stirring, to return to its initial state in which the aqueous and oily phases are distinct

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectPhase separation:

Data Source

PatentEP3419589B1Two-phase cosmetic composition and use thereof for topical application
Publication Date: 2020.03.11 PIERRE FABRE DERMO COSMETIQUE SA
  • EP3419589B1 patent drawingFigure 1(a)~3(b)
  • EP3419589B1 patent drawingFigure 4a~4c

AI summary

The invention relates to a two-phase-type cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase which are different from one another, non miscible and can be dispersed one inside the other. The aqueous phase contains an oil phase encapsulating agent, in particular maltodextrin. By way of active ingredient, the composition can contain caffeine or argan tree extracts.