Variable Compression Knitting via Active Yarn Tension Control

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current methods for manufacturing knitwear and seamless items with variable compression are complex, expensive, and often result in fabric defects, aesthetic discontinuities, and limited elasticity variation, especially when trying to achieve differentiated compression areas without manual cutting and sewing.

Innovation Solution

A process for circular weft knitting machines that actively changes the tension of elastic yarns within knitting rows, allowing for differentiated elastic yarn tension in adjacent portions with the same jersey or plain structure, independent of stitch cam variations, using active feeding devices and yarn braking systems to achieve variable compression without altering the knitting structure or yarn type.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Manufacturing precision

If manual or partially automated assembly of different fabric portions is used to obtain differentiated compression areas, then differentiated compression can be achieved, but the process becomes complex and expensive with additional cutting and sewing operations

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedifferentiated compression areasVSAvoidmanual assembly process
Core Design Contradiction:
Manufacturing precisionVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent combines multiple fabric portions with different compression properties into a single seamless knitted structure. The knitting machine produces one continuous fabric that integrates areas of different compression levels without requiring separate cutting and sewing operations, thus merging what would traditionally be separate components into a unified product.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #5Merging (Combining)

Solution Approach 2:

The knitting machine operates continuously to produce a seamless fabric with differentiated compression areas. The process maintains continuous knitting action without interruption for cutting, sewing, or assembling separate pieces, thereby eliminating discontinuities and additional operations while achieving the desired differentiated compression effect.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #20Continuity of useful action

2Shape

If the size of the grafting stitch is varied to obtain areas with different stitching properties, then shaping can be achieved, but elasticity properties are reduced or blocked and stitch density varies

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveshaping of textile areasVSAvoidelasticity properties
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies local quality by varying the compression properties in specific localized areas of the fabric while maintaining uniform stitch structure elsewhere. This is achieved by controlling yarn feeding and tension locally rather than changing the overall stitch size, thereby obtaining differentiated compression and shaping effects without compromising the elasticity and uniformity of the entire fabric.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

3Manufacturing precision

If the type of knitted structure is varied to obtain areas with different properties, then differentiated compression can be achieved, but welts are caused that reduce elasticity and aesthetic discontinuities occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedifferentiated compression areasVSAvoidaesthetic discontinuities and welts
Core Design Contradiction:
Manufacturing precisionVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent maintains homogeneity in the knitted structure by using a uniform jersey or plain stitch pattern throughout the entire fabric. Differentiated compression areas are achieved not by changing the stitch type or structure, but by varying yarn feeding and tension parameters, thereby preserving the homogeneous appearance and eliminating aesthetic discontinuities and welts that would result from structure variations.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #33Homogeneity

4Manufacturing precision

If elastic yarn tension is actively changed within knitting rows using feeding devices and yarn braking systems, then variable compression can be achieved, but the process requires precise control

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvevariable compression areasVSAvoidprogramming complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
Manufacturing precisionVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent implements dynamic control of yarn tension during the knitting process. The yarn feeding devices and braking systems are programmed to actively adjust tension levels in real-time within knitting rows, creating variable compression areas. This dynamic approach allows precise control over compression distribution while maintaining ease of operation through automated programming that manages the complexity of tension variations.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #15Dynamics

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

Enables the production of high-quality, seamless textile items with varied compression areas, reducing fabric defects and manual interventions, while simplifying programming and achieving precise, automatic shaping and compression effects suitable for diverse body needs.

Implementation Method 1

using active feeding devices and yarn braking systems to achieve variable compression without altering the knitting structure or yarn type

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectFriction: Friction

Data Source

PatentEP2937452B1Process for manufacturing knitwear, hosiery or seamless textile items with variable compression
Publication Date: 2023.05.24 SANTONI SPA
  • EP2937452B1 patent drawingFigure 1~2
  • EP2937452B1 patent drawingFigure 3~4
  • EP2937452B1 patent drawingFigure 5

AI summary

A process for manufacturing knitwear, hosiery textile items or seamless items with variable compression on circular weft knitting machines, comprising the steps of activating a program for manufacturing a textile (6); manufacturing a textile item (6); and changing the tension of an elastic yarn (9) fed to the needles (4) by a first feeding device (8) of a predefined value of variation and for a predefined number of times, corresponding to at least two times within the same knitting row during the production of the textile, so as to define in said knitting row of the textile a corresponding predefined number of distinct knitting row portions having a differentiated yarn tension, corresponding to at least two portions of the same knitting row; the step of changing the tension of such a yarn being performed independently from the knitted structure produced and also independently from a variation in the position of the stitch adjusting cams (7).