Water-in-Oil Cosmetic Emulsion for Stable Full-Coverage Finish

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions struggle to provide a natural finish with full coverage, long-lasting wear, and a smooth, creamy texture while effectively concealing skin imperfections such as dark spots and wrinkles, without using silicones or alkanes.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition comprising esters of fatty acids with more than 13 carbon atoms, polymerized (iso)butenes, carbohydrate fatty acid esters, and hydrophobic silica, along with pigments, formulated in a water-in-oil emulsion, provides enhanced coverage and stability.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Manufacturing precision

If conventional cosmetic compositions are used to achieve full coverage and conceal skin imperfections, then coverage effect is improved, but the formulation becomes unstable or fails to provide natural finish and creamy texture

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecoverage effectVSAvoidformulation stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Manufacturing precisionVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs a composite emulsion system combining water-in-oil emulsion with specific ratios of ester components (C13-C22 fatty acid esters), polymerized (iso)butenes, and carbohydrate fatty acid ester emulsifiers. This composite formulation achieves both full coverage effect and formulation stability by integrating multiple functional components that work synergistically - the esters provide coverage and texture, the polymer contributes to stability and wear, and the emulsifier ensures proper emulsion formation and stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent specifies precise parameter ranges for formulation stability and performance: ester components with 13-22 carbon atoms, polymerized (iso)butene content at 1-20% by weight, carbohydrate fatty acid ester emulsifier at 1-10% by weight, and controlled water content (5-50% for Type I, 10-40% for Type II). These parameter optimizations ensure the composition maintains stability across wide temperature ranges while delivering natural finish and full coverage.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Duration of action of moving object

If conventional cosmetic compositions are used to achieve full coverage and long-lasting wear, then coverage effect and duration of action are improved, but the texture becomes unnatural or heavy

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewear durationVSAvoidtexture quality
Core Design Contradiction:
Duration of action of moving objectVSShape

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes physical parameters including water content (5-50% for Type I, 10-40% for Type II), ester component composition (C13-C22 fatty acid esters), and polymer content (1-20% by weight) to achieve the desired balance between long wear duration and natural texture. The specific parameter ranges ensure the composition provides full coverage and long-lasting wear while maintaining a fresh, light, and natural skin-like texture without heaviness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates different emulsion types (Type I with 5-50% water for lighter texture, Type II with 10-40% water for balanced performance) to address different skin needs and texture requirements. Each emulsion type is formulated with specific local compositions of esters and polymers to provide appropriate texture quality matched to the desired coverage and wear characteristics.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

3Shape

If cosmetic compositions are formulated without silicones and alkanes to achieve natural finish, then texture quality is improved, but formulation stability and coverage performance may be compromised

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvenatural finishVSAvoidformulation stability
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent replaces silicones and alkanes with alternative ester components (C13-C22 fatty acid esters) and polymerized (iso)butenes, optimizing the carbon chain length and chemical composition to maintain formulation stability without relying on silicones or alkanes. The specific parameter optimization of ester composition and polymer content ensures adequate coverage and stability are achieved while using only natural, non-silicone, non-alkane ingredients for a natural finish.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite emulsion system using water-in-oil emulsion with specific ratios of ester components, polymerized (iso)butenes, and carbohydrate fatty acid ester emulsifiers. This composite formulation achieves both full coverage effect and formulation stability by integrating multiple functional components that work synergistically - the esters provide coverage and texture, the polymer contributes to stability and wear, and the emulsifier ensures proper emulsion formation and stability, all without silicones or alkanes.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

4Manufacturing precision

If cosmetic compositions are used to conceal skin imperfections effectively, then coverage effect is improved, but the composition becomes too dense or thin to look natural

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveconcealing coverageVSAvoidconcentration density
Core Design Contradiction:
Manufacturing precisionVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the concentration parameters of multiple components: water content (5-50% for Type I, 10-40% for Type II), ester component composition (C13-C22 fatty acid esters), polymer content (1-20% by weight), and pigment concentration. These parameter optimizations enable the composition to provide effective concealing coverage while maintaining appropriate concentration density that looks natural on skin, avoiding both excessive thickness and insufficient coverage.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves a natural finish with full coverage, long-lasting wear, and a smooth, creamy texture, effectively concealing skin imperfections while maintaining stability over a wide temperature range.

Implementation Method 1

a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion: Emulsion

Data Source

PatentUS20250332074A1Water-in-oil emulsion composition
Publication Date: 2025.10.30 LOREAL SA
  • US20250332074A1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, including, (a) one or more esters formed from at least one fatty acid having more than 13 carbon atoms; (b) a polymer component including one or more polymerized (iso)butenes; (c) at least about 3% by weight of one or more carbohydrate fatty acid ester emulsifiers; (d) one or more fillers comprising hydrophobic silica; and (e) one or more pigments. The composition is substantially free of silicones & alkanes.